Posts Tagged ‘deer hunting’

Totals for all Ohio deer hunting seasons,including archery up to 1/14/2015 are-

2013-14    186,347

2014-15   169,179

That’s a 9.21% drop.

Some of the well known counties that have had a 5,000 deer or so harvest saw drops of 15% or so.

Too many does being harvested,too much coyote predation,along with several localized EHD outbreaks in 2011,2012 and 2013.

Rumor has it that ODNR is going to change the county by county bag limits to WMU’s.

Not sure what good going to wildlife management units will do,the problems are just what I stated-

1) Too many does being harvested for too many years.

2) Coyote predation.

3) EHD outbreaks.

Unless you want to see a double digit reduction in the deer harvest-get out there and start shooting ‘yotes. The wildlife biologists all agree that concentrated efforts at reducing local ‘yote numbers is effective.

What this means is that you and all your friends who hunt deer need to get out and shoot as many ‘yotes as you can, from now until after fawns have been dropped and are up and able to run.

the ‘yotes will still get fawns-but if there’s less ‘yotes-that means they kill less fawns.

Fur prices make it worth it to skin,salt and save ‘yote hides-at least you can cover your ammo cost,along with the cost of gas to go to your hunting area and back home. You might even have enough left over to pay for next year’s hunting license and deer tags. Besides that-it’s good exercise,and keeps your shooting skills sharp. Also tests your skill at camo and concealment.

We put a hurtin on the ‘yote population in the county we mainly hunt in last winter and spring,as did a lot of other guys in the county-we only saw a 1.32% drop in deer harvest totals-and we still have until Feb. 1st to get deer with bow and arrow/crossbow.

There’s nothing we can do about EHD outbreaks,or the number of doe tags/number of does harvested,but we can do something about coyote predation-unless you want to see even less deer next fall/winter-get out there and start whackin’ as many ‘yotes as you can. Every ‘yote you kill improves fawn survival rates-go get as many as you can-they’re smart,they’re sneaky,and they can both see and smell humans from a long ways off. Use your muzzleloader for a challenge-use your bow or crossbow for an even bigger challenge.

It takes some effort and some skill to take ‘yotes,look at it as training,the better you get at taking ‘yotes-the better deer hunter you become-and the higher the rate of fawn survival.

We’re still deer hunting-as soon as bow season’s over,we’re gonna start whackin ‘yotes-you should do the same. If us deer hunters make a concentrated effort-we can bring the deer population back up in 2 seasons or less-if we don’t make an effort-we will continue to see drops in deer harvest totals-drops of 15-20% a year.

Go kill some ‘yotes !

Since I’ve spent a considerable amount of time butchering deer for guys lately,and 90% of them had knives so dull they couldn’t be used-which is why I always bring my own if going to someone else’s home to cut up their deer- I figured it was time to do another post on knife sharpening.

Guys have handed me these “really great game processing knives and tools” that they wasted their $50.00-$75.00 or more on,and the pieces of crap wouldn’t cut through a cake without tearing it up.

Sharpening a knife is not all that complicated,it ain’t rocket science,you don’t need an engineering degree to get your knives sharp and keep them sharp.

You need a few basic things-a set of sharpening stones-(oilstones/ whetstones)-a butcher’s steel-a real one,not the 8-10″ pieces of shit that come with the equally useless knives in the wooden block on most people’s kitchen counters-an 18″ butcher’s steel-go to any restaurant supply store,any store that sells top quality cutlery,or order one online.

Lastly,you should have ceramic sharpening “sticks’-either the sticks that go in a wood block,or the inexpensive plastic sharpeners that have carbide sticks on one side,and ceramic on the other.

I have a tri-hone set of 3 sharpening stones made by Smith’s,it’s a coarse,a medium,and a fine stone,attached to a triangle shaped piece of wood that rests in notches in the wood base-you just turn it to whatever stone you need,as you do not always need to start with the coarse stone,sometimes you just need to “touch up” a blade.

I have a real butcher’s steel,have had the same one for 35 years or so,got it way back when I was a line cook,before I finished the apprenticeship and became an executive chef.

I’m on my 3rd tri-hone,they seem to last about 10 years-less if you’re keeping a bunch of knives sharp as you’re running a kitchen in a country club.

I use a small sharpener that has carbide and ceramic “sticks” ,along with a diamond coated,tapered rod for sharpening serrated blades.

The key to sharpening your knives is to be able to hold the same angle every time as you move the knife across the stone.If you can not do that-cut yourself some wood wedges,and hold those under the blade.

You want to use a 20-25 degree angle-( 20-25 degrees for each bevel-or a 40-50 degree inclusive angle)- for knives used to butcher game animals,mine always seem to end up at around 22.5-23 degrees,which works fine for me,if I need something more like a razor blade edge,I use a flatter angle-closer to 18-20 degrees-which is what I use for my filet knives.

As long as your knife blades are not full of nicks,or have chunks missing,you should only need 10-15 strokes on each side,starting with the coarse stone and repeated for the med. and fine stones,follow that up with 8-10 strokes on each side on the steel.

The angle is the key-you have to hold the same angle,then hold the same angle on the butcher’s steel.

After following that process,you can also use a razor strop-which is just a wide piece of leather-like barbers used in the old days-that’s got a clip on one end so you can attach it to a table,workbench,etc. and use it to strop the edge of your knife blade-you do this by pulling the knife away from you,sharp edge down,facing towards you to start,then pulling the knife back towards you-holding the same angle you used to sharpen your knife,use 8-10 strokes each side.

When you think you’re done with the whetstones,and think your knife is sharp-get a really bright light-I use a halogen desk lamp that was in my garage when I moved into this house-no idea where it came from,only know that it works great for working under cars at night too-it’s that bright.

Anyhow-holding the knife with sharp part of blade up-looking straight down at sharp edge-look at it under the bright light-your edge should look like this _________________________ a solid black line-any light spots,gaps,etc-and it’s back to the whetstones-starting with coarse-if it doesn’t look like a solid black line the second time you check it-go back through all the steps again-and again until you get it right-I know it’s a pain in the ass-but… you’ll thank me in the end-a sharp knife is a safe knife-and if you do manage to cut yourself-it will be like a surgical cut-not a cut from a can lid-so little to no scar when the cut heals,and likely no stitches of you go to the ER-they’ll just use Dermabond-(superglue for people).

When your knife starts to get a little dull,use the ceramic sticks,or the plastic “pocket sharpener” with the carbide and ceramic “sticks” embedded in it-6-8 times for carbide sticks,then 6-8 for ceramic sticks,and that should bring your blade back to a good edge.

If it doesn’t start with the medium stone,about 14-18 strokes on each side,then 10-12 strokes on each side with fine stone,then 6-8 strokes on each side with the steel.

If that doesn’t bring it back-you waited way too long to re-sharpen,so just start all over with the course stone-and go through the rest of the steps.

Diamond stones work great,but I’ve found that if a knife is really dull,you can not bring it back with a diamond stone like you can with a whetstone-so start with the whetstones.

AS long as you notice your blades getting dull before they are too dull,a few strokes on each side of the blade-6-8 or so,on a coarse or med diamond stone,followed by a few more with a fine diamond stone,and your knife will be as sharp as it was when you started.

I have a small -(6″)-diamond hone-it’s got a coarse and fine side,about a 6″x 1″ diamond stone,it stores in the handle,so you pull it out,place the end with the stone out,and use it sort of like a steel.

You hold the hone in one hand,run the knife across the stone as if you were trying to cut a thin  slice off of the stone-go away from your body first,then towards you body,this counts as 1 stroke for each side of the blade,as away and toward you use opposite sides of the blade-12-16 strokes-(6-8 per side) on the coarse side,followed by same number on fine side,followed by 6-8 strokes on each carbide and ceramic using the pocket sharpener,and you should have a really sharp knife-at least as sharp as you started with.

Tri-Hone-this is a pic of a diamond stone version-NOT the Arkansas oilstone version I recommend-apparently the base is now made from plastic.

Diamond hone…

Smith's 4

Pocket sharpener…

If for some reason you still can not manage to get a good edge on your knives-because you can’t hold the angle the same-or whatever other reason,there’s always a plan “B”-here’s my plan B…

“The Work Sharp Knife & Tool Sharpener is the first knife sharpener designed to sharpen every knife you own. Using flexible abrasive belts, the sharpener is able to sharpen not just straight bladed knives, but also curved knives, tanto blades, filet knives, serrated knives, gut hooks and virtually any other shape of knife blade. The Knife & Tool Sharpener uses precision angle sharpening guides to ensure that you get the proper angle every time. Two guides are included: a 50° guide for hunting and outdoor knives (25° per bevel) and a 40° guide for thinner blades and kitchen knives (20° per bevel). Professional knife makers use flexible belts to put a razor sharp edge on their blades, and now you can have the same technology at home to use any time your knives get dull. You may already have other sharpening methods, but never before has a knife sharpener been able to quickly and easily sharpen this broad range of knives to such extremely sharp results.”

http://www.worksharptools.com/knife/featured-products-home-knife/work-sharp-knife-and-tool-sharpener.html

***Notice****  I do not work for Smith’s,represent Smith’s,receive any advertising $$ from Smith’s-or have any connection whatsoever with Smith’s other than I like their products,and have been using them for over 30 years now.  Same with Works sharp-they just make a good product.

I suggest them because they work-that’s all.

I also recommend DMT for diamond bench stones.

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This is why everyone who hunts deer needs to hunt coyotes. This past summer,in late June/early July, I found 3 fawns in one week that were hiding behind condos,two of them were behind the A-C units,since the people who live there,and the township cops ain’t too fond of gunshots in the condo complex-I called them to come and shoot the fawns to end their suffering. two of them had huge chunks missing from their hindquarters,and the wounds were infected-complete with maggots.The township cops told me that they had to shoot an average of 6 fawns a week that had been attacked by ‘yotes in May and June. Not sure how many they had to shoot the rest of the summer,as I was not working much in the area,and didn’t find any more wounded fawns behind homes.

In NE Ohiuo,between fawn and adult deer predation by ‘yotes,the EHD that hit hard in 2012,and last winters extended brutal cold-deer numbers are way down.

The only way to get the population to increase again is to take out as many ‘yotes as possible. Wildlife biologists say that ‘yotes can not be controlled state wide by hunting them-but they can be controlled in local areas,if enough of them are taken.

Whatever your favorite deer hunting area is-get as many guys and gals as you can to start hunting ‘yotes-no bag limit-no closed season. Makes for good target practice too. Another plus is in Ohio,you can hunt ‘yotes with rifles-not just the straight-walled rifle cartridges legal for deer hunting-any rifle caliber is legal for hunting ‘yotes.

I’m going to hunt them with my muzzleloader,then with my crossbow,then with my compound,then with my recurve. My youngest daughter is going to hunt them with a 30-30 to practice for deer hunting in W.Va next year,with her 20 gauge using deer slugs,and with a borrowed 45-70 since that’s legal for deer in Ohio.

Hopefully,we put enough of a hurtin’ on the ‘yote population to improve fawn survival rates by slowing ‘yote predation on the fawns and pregnant does.

If everyone does the same thing in their favorite hunting area-the deer population will rebound quickly-most of those wall-hanger bucks are only 3-3 1/2 years old.

We should all stop taking does,or at least only take one-not the 9 deer total bag limit-1 buck and 8 does- currently in effect for the state-that will help the deer population rebound faster,and cause ‘yote predation to have less of an effect on deer population.

Ohio Muzzleloader Season Starts-1/2/14-1/5/14

Posted: January 2, 2015 by gamegetterII in deer hunting
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Since Muzzleloader season starts a half hour before sunrise,ends a half hour after sunset,and we’ve got an hour and 15 minute drive each way…posting will be light until Mon 1/5/14.

I may have time to do a couple posts in the evenings,or if I get another deer,I’m done for the year,as our freezer is filled to max capacity.

If my brother doesn’t get a deer,and I do,I’ll give him the venison from the one I get,if he does get one-I may just donate the doe I’m gonna shoot tomorrow or Sat. Ohio has a bunch of programs where you can donate venison,doesn’t cost you anything,you just have to drop the deer off at a processor.

We usually donate at least one deer to one of the programs,all the venison goes to help those who can’t buy groceries for whatever reason.

Donating venison also helps people have a better perception of hunters-every little bit helps because the anti-hunters never stop,now we have HSUS funding campaigns to get anti-hunting shit on the ballot. These people spend billions trying to get all hunting banned. Wayne Pacelle-prez of HSUS stated in public that his goals are to ban all hunting,and require everyone to become vegan.

HSUS gets billions in donations by scamming clueless people. They air ads on TV that make it appear that HSUS operates animal shelters-the fact is HSUS does not operate a single shelter-not one.

They just show pictures of mistreated and/or injured,starving pets-and poof-the $$$ rolls in.

After collecting the billions,they then try to get anti-hunting crap on the ballot with lies,half-truths and obfuscation-and the low info voters gladly vote for the garbage. Pacelle stated they are starting in Ca,then moving on to the rest of the states.

They never stop,they sneak shit into petitions,get the issues on the ballot-then bam-we can’t hunt mountain lions or bears with dogs,they’re trying to get hunting fox,raccoons and rabbits with dogs.

Once they get one thing banned-they just keep going,taking hunting rights away a little at a time.

What these clueless dolts do not comprehend is that the fewer hunting licenses and tags sold-the less money for wildlife conservation. Hunters fund over 90% of all wildlife conservation efforts in the USA. paid for every wildlife refuge in the refuge system,by buying duck stamps, both state and fed.

Remember this as you’re sitting in a treestand or a blind as this hunting season winds down.

Think about joining or donating to Ducks Unlimited,Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation,National Wild Turkey Federation,Ruffed Grouse Society,Pheasants Forever-there’s a bunch more,along with lots of local and state groups/orgs.

Anyone who likes to hunt,and wants to pass the tradition on to their kids should be donating $$ or labor to one of these groups/orgs-it helps balance out the horsepucky spread by HSUS,PETA,Center for Biological Diversity,World Wildlife Fund,Wild Earth Guardians,Defender of Wildlife,and on and on and on.

Good luck to anyone hunting the Ohio muzzleloader season !

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Since most of us ate way too much,and drank way too much over the holidays-do some extra PT !

Study finds many Ohio deer infected by house cats

Posted: December 31, 2014 by gamegetterII in deer hunting
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December 29, 2014 5:00 am  • 

If you’re deer hunting in an area known to have a lot of feral house cats, you might want to make sure you cook your venison properly.

That’s because a new study published in the journal EcoHealth has found that a large percentage of whitetail deer in the greater Cleveland, Ohio, area are infected with a parasite associated with feral domestic cats.

“This study documents the widespread infection of deer populations in northeastern Ohio, most likely resulting from feral cats, and highlights the need for consumers of venison to make absolutely certain that any deer meat planned for consumption is thoroughly and properly cooked,” said Gregory Ballash of the Department of Veterinary Preventive Medicine at Ohio State University and lead author of the study.

Two hundred free-roaming cats and 444 white-tailed deer were tested for the parasite Toxoplasma gondii, which causes toxoplasmosis. Almost 60 percent (261) of the deer showed evidence of infection and more than 65 percent (164) of the studied cats tested positive.

According to the report, approximately 14 percent of the United States’ human population is infected with toxoplasmosis by the age of 40, with an estimated 1 million new cases diagnosed each year. Cats, both domestic and wild (such as bobcats), play a critical role in the spread of toxoplasmosis because they serve as the definitive hosts, fulfilling the requirements needed for the parasite to sexually reproduce and complete its life cycle.

Processing Your Own Deer

Posted: December 26, 2014 by gamegetterII in hunting
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The first thing you absolutely must do to insure great tasting venison is to quickly field dress your deer,being careful not to puncture the stomach or intestines,and prop the chest cavity open to help speed cooling. Do this even in cold weather,as the faster you cool the meat,the better the end product will be. Also be sure to remove the deers anal canal-they make a tool called Butt-Out that greatly simplifies the task-or just cut it out with your knife.

Carry a few gallon sized ziploc bags with you if you like the liver or heart,and place those in the bags,along with the two tenderloins that run along the deers backbone on the inside of the body cavity you made when you gutted the critter.

The second thing is you must either allow the deer to hang in a cold place-below 38 degrees,or skin and quarter the deer,and age it in a couple of coolers by placing the deer quarter in a plastic trash bag,filling the cooler part way with ice,then placing the bag of meat on the ice. You can also use game bags to age your venison, but most of us hunt deer close enough to home and/or a hunting camp that there is no need for game bags unless you live in the south,where flies and other insects are an issue. The only time I use game bags is when hunting the mountain west,where it can be several days before I get back to “civilization” and the meat must be hung in a tree to keep it away from bears,coyotes etc.

Having hunted and processed my own game for over 40 years,I have found that as long as the weather cooperates,I let my deer hang for 7 days,then skin and process it.

When I have to use the coolers and ice method-I give it 10 days before processing.

The third thing,and I’m only putting it as third,because it’s the third step-is at least as important as allowing the meat to cool quickly.

The third thing is you must remove every bit of fat from the venison,venison fat is one of,if not the nastiest tasting things I have ever tasted-and I have tasted some things that are pretty gross to most people-Haggis comes to mind,tripe,”mountain oysters”,raw clam cocktail that I demanded to order in a restaurant as a kid-and was told in no uncertain terms by my dad that if he was paying for it I was damn sure gonna eat it-almost puked on the table it was so nasty!

I’m not going to get into the hang your deer head up or head down argument-I hang mine head up,because I find it easier to butcher the deer that way, as I start with the neck and shoulders,which take more time to bone out than the hind quarters.

Skin the deer carefully,being careful not to cut through it except to split it at the neck and legs,and remove the meat from the tail. If you plan on tanning the hide-be extra careful to not leave any meat attached to it,as you will just have to remove it later.

If you shot a trophy that you plan on having mounted-leave about 6″ more hide on the head/neck, or neck shoulders if getting a shoulder mount than you think the taxidermist will need.

I start at the neck,removing the larger muscles ,saving them to grind. Next,I remove the “backstraps” which are really the loins that run along  and on either side of the spine-this is prime meat,use it for steaks. Start at the top of the backstrap just above the shoulder,run your knife along the backbone,going around each vertebrae,when you reach the end of the backstrap,take your knife,and run it along the bone from the other side of the loin-or you can cut so far on one side,then cut the same length on the other,and the loin will just peel away from the bone as you go, with minimal knife work. Either way works,just a matter of preference.

Next,I bone the shoulders out,separating the muscle groups,after that,the hind quarters,same thing,just remove the meat by muscle groups,there’s really nothing to it,it’s very easy to do.

Once I am at this point,I rinse all the meat to remove any stray hairs from it,then sit at a table to start cutting it into roasts,and chunks for stew and grinding.

You will notice as you begin to separate the muscles into roasts that there is a clear membrane-get all that off and toss it in the trash bucket you have next to the cutting table.

You will also notice a silvery colored “skin” covering parts of the muscles-this is called siverskin and is what makes the clumps of “gristle” you sometimes get in ground beef.Remove this with a boning knife or filet knife-carefully cut under it,then take your knife blade pointing away from the meat,and run it along the silverskin-repeat this until you have removed all of it.

As you trim your roasts,toss the larger chunks into a pile for stew meat,the smaller into another pile for ground meat. I sometimes grind one shoulder into ground meat,and will also grind the smaller roasts from the hindquarters as well-depends on how much ground meat you want to end up with.

One piece of advice-buy a good grinder-I have both a hand-crank that’s so old my great grandmother used it,and a 1 1/2 hp electric grinder I bought from Cabelas years ago.

The grinders will come with at least 2 plates that have holes in them-these determrine the size of the grind you get when you grind the meat.

Whichever type of grinder you use,always grind the meat,grind the fat,then mix the two together,then grind a second time. Ground venison is best when ground to a medium or coarse grind-we prefer coarse grind,so I use the same plate for all 3 steps. If you prefer a smaller grind,grind meaqt and fat with the larger plate,mix the two,then grind using a plate with smaller holes.

The roasts from the hindquarters are more tender,and look just like the same roasts cut from a beef cow. I’ll use the shoulder roasts for crockpot roasts,and the roasts from the hindquarters get treated the same as a high quality beef roast.

My wife likes to use the bags with the seasonings already in them,she puts potatoes,carrots a little celery and onion in the bag with the roast-cooks according to directions on package-and venison roasts made like that rock! Just had one for Christmas dinner.

I make jerky from a couple of the roasts,and all the trimmings from the hindquarters are used for stew meat if big enough pieces,or get tossed into the grind pile if small pieces.

To make the best tasting ground venison,you have to add some fat,what kind is up to you,some use pork fat,some use beef fat,some grind bacon into their ground venison.

I use beef fat,it’s readily available,even from today’s grocery stores that don’t really butcher meat,they just cut up boxed large cuts,and it’s inexpensive-I just paid $4.99 for 5# a couple weeks ago.

Beef fat makes ground venison taste more like ground beef-and it makes ass-kickin good burgers-just be careful not to overcook it!

Venison is best cooked to medium rare-if making your burgers inside-I use a cast iron skillet,get it nice and hot,then cook the ground venison burgers,lightly seasoned with just salt and pepper for about 3 minutes per side,flipping only once. Let the cooked burgers rest for a few minutes as you get your fixin’s ready,put it on the bun and enjoy-best burgers you’ll ever eat.

Those of you who like liver-yuck-venison liver cooks way faster than beef or calf liver-so you have to cook your onions halfway first. I’ll start the onions in one skillet,then dredge the liver pieces in flour that’s been seasoned with salt and pepper,and cook in a cast iron skillet that’s good and hot and has a 50/50 mix of butter and cooking oil in it-lightly brown the liver,when you turn the pieces over,add the onions from the other pan,the onions will finish cooking as the liver cooks-remove the liver pieces when browned,place on paper towels to drain any oil,then put on plates,and top with the now fully cooked onions-enjoy-the wife and kids won’t eat beef liver any more-they can’t wait for fall and that first venison liver now.

Hope that helps…

One other thing-expect to get about half of what your deer weighs after field dressed in meat when you process it-make sure you have freezer space already cleared when you start processing.

Any questions-just ask in the comments-or e-mail me @gamegetterII@yahoo.com

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It’s the holidays and you’re eating and drinking way more than you should-do some extra PT !

It takes less than a second to fall 15 feet and ruin your life forever, when in 10 minutes you can rig a static line and Prusik safety loop for safe climbing into a stand. It’s easy. It’s inexpensive. It should be on the top of your to-do list. It’s also critical during the late season when your stand could be icy and you’re wearing heavy clothes, which make it tougher to climb.

http://http://www.fieldandstream.com/blogs/total-outdoorsman/video-tie-a-prusik-knot-and-rig-a-treestand-safety-line?cmpid=enews120314b&spPodID=020&spMailingID=7333718&spUserID=NjI2NzA0MjQyMzcS1&spJobID=580379775&spReportId=NTgwMzc5Nzc1S0#ooid=R0YmRrcToJ87nbXUgP6Oamy1kzPCW4nY

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Back From Successful Deer Hunting Trip

Posted: December 8, 2014 by gamegetterII in deer hunting
Tags: ,

Decided to shoot this guy-not much in the way of antlers-but he’s a big deer-right around 200# as he’s hanging in garage,after field dressing.

It was about a 40 yard shot,used a 240 grain Hornady XTP bullet,a .45 caliber bullet with a .50 caliber sabot,with 2 50 grain pyrodex pellets for a 100 grain charge.

The load develops around 1750-1780 fps,as chronographed.

Depending on where I’m hunting,I’ll use the above load for close/medium range shots,for longer range shots-anything from 100yards out to 250 yards,I use 100 grains of triple 7 FFFG powder instead of pellets.

That load gets 1900-1930 fps, depending on whether I use a .44 caliber bullet w .50 caliber sabot,or a .45 caliber bullet w .50 caliber sabot.

At 250 yards,either load still has over 1000 ft lbs of energy remaining,for deer,anything over 900ft lbs is plenty of energy to make a quick,clean,humane kill.

The 40 yard shot I made pretty much liquified the lungs,as the bullet went through both lungs,and got part of the heart.

The inconsiderate prick still ran about 60 yards,then dropped dead in a creek-a really deep creek.

Fortunately,his back legs were still in shallow water,so I was able to drag him out without getting soaked.

I shot him from a blind I made using camo burlap,the 2 pieces I used cost a total of $28.00,also used a few zip ties,4 six foot wooden stakes,and some jute twine,making the total cost under $35.00 I had some leftover green and black spray paint laying around,so I made a camo design on the wooden stakes.

Blind is big enough for 2 people to hunt from comfortably,youngest daughter and I hunted out of it,the days she had to hunt were lousy days for hunting,15-20 mph wind out of NW kept the deer bedded down during daylight hours.

I had 6 scent wicks with estrous doe urine hanging just off the 3 main trails,used a grunt tube and estrous bleat can call,there were a few freshly made scrapes,so I enlarged them,and made a few fake ones on Thurs. and added scent on Fri. and Sat am’s.

The rut peaked here the second week of Nov. I started seeing lots of signs of the rut starting the first week of Nov.

The does that were not bred in Nov. cycle back into estrous 28 days later-so that’s the first two weeks of Dec.

Any late cycling does that still are not bred in Dec. will cycle back into estrous the first two weeks of Jan. Ohio’s muzzleloader season is 1/2-1/5 2015,so it coincides with the last does cycling back into estrous. Estrous scent wicks,grunt tubes,and estrous doe bleat cans will work in the first two weeks of Jan. just like they did in Nov. and Dec.

The deer I shot was partially behind some brush,couldn’t see the head clearly at all,saw enough of the shoulder to make the shot-I thought I was shooting a doe.

I had already reloaded before I walked to the creek,as I thought I may have needed a second shot.

As I said,the 240 gr JHP XTP passed through the deer,got both lungs,there was very little left of them-and the heart had a hole all the way through it.

Hell of an adrenaline dump for him to run 60 yards with no blood pressure,and no oxygen being inhaled.

The weather is perfect for letting the deer hang to age the meat.

I’ll let him hang ’till Fri. or Sat,then butcher him on the weekend.

I’m going to grind a lot of the meat,I’ll keep the 2 good shoulder roasts from the front,two good roasts from the hindquarters,cut the backstraps-(loins)- into steaks,smoke the tenderloins,slice the other 4 roasts-2 from shoulders,2 from hindquarters for jerky,the rest will be ground with some beef fat,with 1/3 being made into burger,1/3 into Italian sausage,the last 1/3 into country style/breakfast sausage.

One of my good friends also got a deer-he got a really nice 8 point-has an 18″ antler spread with a perfectly symmetrical rack-it’s not a big deer though-it’s about 140-160# hanging weight.

We’re going to cut his up Wed or Thurs,as he got his last Thurs. That one will be processed the same way as mine.

I still have another tag,so I’ll continue to bowhunt until end of Dec,hunt the 4 day Jan muzzleloader season,then go back to bowhunting the rest of Jan.

I’ll try to help the daughter get a deer,and my brother get his.

The $24.00 for an either sex deer tag is well worth it for the 100# or so of meat I’ll get from the deer I just got,another $24.00 for another 100# or so of meat.

Where else can you get 200# of organic,free range meat for $48.00?

IMG_0342[1]IMG_0341[1]

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Ohio’s Deer Gun Season 12/1-12/7 2014

Posted: November 29, 2014 by gamegetterII in deer hunting
Tags: , ,

Just a few words on the Ohio gun season.

Doe tags are NOT valid anywhere in Ohio during gun season-if you have a doe tag,go hunt tomorrow and Sunday with your bow or crossbow,take a nice fat doe,so you have the meat for your freezer,and so the tag isn’t wasted-unless you just want to give ODNR an extra 15 bucks-in that case,don’t use your bow to take a doe,just waste the tag you paid for.

Hunting hours are 1/2 hour before sunrise,to 1/2 hour after sunset.

Ohio sunrise/sunset tables…

Sunrise/Sunset Tables

            Sunrise/Sunset State Map

Eastern Ohio

Eastern Ohio Sunrise/Sunset Table

Western Ohio

Western Ohio Sunrise/Sunset Table

You can take only 1 buck anywhere in the state,you can take up to 9 deer total,by taking no more than the limit for each county,or you can take 1 deer each from 9 counties,etc. The limit is still only 1 buck,no matter what county you take it in.

Hunting any wild animal (except waterfowl)from 1/2 hour before sunrise to 1/2 hour after sunset during the youth deer gun season, deer gun season, the antlerless deer muzzleloader season, and the muzzleloader deer season is unlawful unless the hunter is visibly wearing a vest, coat, jacket, or coveralls that are either solid hunter orange or camouflage hunter orange. This requirement applies statewide on both public and private land.

hunter orange example

Pay attention to property lines-do not trespass on private property.

Written permission is REQUIRED to hunt on private property that you do not own.

You must have the written permission with you when hunting private property that you do not own.

Make sure you have your license and tags with you.

Make sure you have the correct type of blaze orange vest,which must be worn during deer gun season-unless you are hunting waterfowl.

Be sure that you know the hunting rules/regs.

If you are charged with a hunting violation that results in loss of hunting privileges,your hunting privileges are also lost in every state except Mass. and Nebraska-so, unless you want to only hunt in Nebraska and Mass.-don’t violate the hunting regs !!!

Rifles that use straight walled cartridges are legal this year-about time.

You can also hunt with a handgun next week…

  • Handgun: with 5-inch minimum length barrel, using straight-walled cartridges .357 caliber or larger.
  • Straight-walled cartridge rifles in the following calibers: .357 Magnum, .357 Maximum, .38 Special, .375 Super Magnum, .375 Winchester, .38-55, .41 Long Colt, .41 Magnum, .44 Special, .44 Magnum, .444 Marlin, .45 ACP, .45 Colt, .45 Long Colt, .45 Winchester Magnum, .45 Smith & Wesson, .454 Cassull, .460 Smith & Wesson, .45-70, .45-90, .45-110, .475 Linebaugh, .50-70, .50-90, .50-100, .50-110, and .500 Smith & Wesson.

It is legal to take more than one deer a day,as long the first deer has been tagged.

Good luck to everyone hunting-be safe-practice safe gun handling like you learned in hunter’s safety class-be sure of your target and what’s behind it-there’s a half million hunters in the woods for Ohio’s gun season.

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