Archive for the ‘preparedness’ Category

Tips on processing your own deer

Posted: August 11, 2014 by gamegetterII in food preservation, hunting, preparedness, survival

Once you have shot your deer-whether by bow,shotgun or rifle,the first thing you have to do is field dress it. One of the most important things is to cool the meat down as fast as possible. This means getting the deer back to camp,or home,get it hung up and skinned as soon as possible,if it’s hot outside,pack the chest cavity of the deer with ice,both on the trip home,and once the deer is hanging up.

Venison tastes better if it’s aged for about 5-7 days,if temps are 40 degrees or cooler,you can let the deer hang in your garage,shed,barn,wherever.

If temps are above 40 degrees,butcher the deer,and the meat can be aged in coolers with ice,or in a refrigerator for the same 5-7 days. Aging the meat allows the muscles-which is what meat is- to relax,which makes it more tender.

Butchering a deer is a fairly simple process,there’s a ton of You Tube videos that show the process step by step,and an equal number of books on butchering wild game.

One of the keys to good tasting venison is to remover every bit of fat from the meat-venison fat tastes nasty-cut all of it off.

To improve the flavor of your ground venison-do not grind pork or pork fat into the meat-grind some beef fat into it.

You want to get about an 80-20 ratio of meat to fat,it doesn’t have to be exact,make it 90-10 if you want low-fat ground meat,but remember,the low fat meat has less flavor,and does not make good meatloaf,meatballs,etc. Any more than 20% fat,and you have greasy meat that shrinks to half the size when you make a burger out of it.

I get beef fat from our local grocery store’s meat dept. they only charge me between 59-79 cents per pound.That’s a great price,for under 10 bucks,you get enough beef fat to grind into 50# of venison.

Always grind the meat twice,it breaks down any connective tissue and small bits of silverskin you missed when trimming the meat,plus it mixes the fat in better.

A vacuum sealer machine is the best way to package and freeze your venison,if you don’t have one,use plastic wrap,butcher’s paper,then place the packages in a Ziploc type freezer bag.

I cut a few nice roasts from my deer,and instead of removing the entire “backstrap”,which is the loin,I leave it on,because I cut some t-bones and strip steaks on my bandsaw,then cut out the remaining parts of the backstraps.

Most of the meat is cut up for stew meat,and ground venison. You should end up with about half of the weight of the deer,after it’s been field dressed.

A 150# deer,weighed after it’s been field dressed,will give you about 75# of meat.

I live in Ohio,our deer get really big because they eat a lot of corn and soybeans from the farm fields. I usually end up with around 90# of meat from the deer I get here.

Those of you who hunt deer a lot should look into investing in an electric grinder,makes the process go much faster than using a hand crank grinder that clamps on to your table.

I still have a couple hand crank grinders,I keep them because there could be a SHTF situation in which we have no power from the grid for weeks or months-maybe longer.

All it took was a tree branch to cause a blackout that shut down all power in Ohio,Pa,Ny,and parts of Canada for several days a few years ago-you should always have the means to survive without power,or with a back-up power source in case a similar blackout happens,or the people who shot the transformers at a substation in CA decide to shoot up multiple substations ,in multiple states.

Like the Boy Scouts say-be prepared.





Do more PT.


There’s a very god chance that during any SHTF event-the grid is going to go down.

How are you going to keep your food cold,frozen foods frozen,have lights,Tee Vee,internet-(if it hasn’t been shut down by TPTB)-and charge your cell phone,GPS,etc.?

Keeping your food cold is important-so is being able to re-charge the batteries for cordless tools.

The cell phone is only important if you have no other means of communication-it may well end up being useless after a short period of time. Most cell towers have back-up power at least the important ones. This means you may have some ability to communicate by cell phone for a day or two.

You do have other means of communicating with other friends family-and your tribe,group,whatever you call your friends who are aware of the chances of a SHTF event right?

Someone in your tribe has their HAM license and radio right?

Solar panels are a good thing to have-they just don’t generate much power in some locations.

Small windmills work great if you have a decent amount of wind in your location.

Micro-hydro works – if you have a stream very near your location.

A combination of wind and solar will work in all locations-with some planning.

There’s another thing to add to the combination as long as there’s some wind in your location. Windmills have been used for a couple hundred years to pump well water-what you need are two large plastic water tanks-250-500 gallons are an ideal size,tank size depends on power needs.

One tank gets placed at ground level-or in your basement-the other needs to be elevated,can use the attic of your house as long as you reinforce the framing,or just use the tower the windmill is on if you want to-all that you need is one tank higher than the other-the greater the height difference,the more power you can generate.

The system is based on having a fairly large bank of deep cycle batteries-that’s your biggest expense,and at least one power inverter.

Here’s the basics-the windmill pumps water to the upper tank,when there’s no wind,a small battery powered pump takes care of pumping water to the upper tank when there’s no wind.


Using the windmill to pump water from the lower tank to the higher tank when there’s wind,and using battery power provided by solar panels to power a small 12 volt pump-(think bilge pump from bass boat or ski boat)- when there’s not enough wind,then the water from the upper tank is drained through a series of progressively smaller PVC pipe until it hits just above the level of the lower tank. The stream of water then turns a small water wheel-(think old time mill on a river using river’s flow to turn the huge millstone to grind wheat and corn)-that’s placed inside a piece of PVC pipe that’s epoxied to the inlet to lower tank. The small wheel can even be a car or truck alternator-or it can turn a shaft that then turns a magneto type generator with a voltage regulator  to be sure the batteries do not get voltage higher than the 18 volts most car and truck alternators put out. The water wheel could also turn a generator that puts out AC power-but then it gets into more complicated electrical engineering.

With this type system-the water is always moving,always producing power-and there are two methods of pumping the water to the upper tank-the direct power from the windmill turning a shaft that turns a pump-and the battery that’s charged by both the windmill and the solar panels.

The greater your power needs-the bigger your battery bank needs to be-more batteries means more stored power. You also need to have a small gas powered generator-2500 watts or so-to charge the batteries when they are too close to being drained.

You can also have separate battery banks for the solar panel array (s). the windmill/water tank/battery powered pump setup (s),meaning if you need more power-build more windmills with water tanks,or just have smaller windmills with car/truck alternators charging a small battery bank,and/or place more small solar panel arrays facing south.


When you set up your battery banks-be sure to have each battery you add fully charged when you add it.

Another thing is you have to use the batteries,they have to be discharged and recharged.

Once you have the system installed-use it to run your home or retreat for the weekend-this way the batteries are getting used,they go through the discharge-recharge cycle a few times a month.

Yes,the batteries are expensive-you can either give up some extras now-or have no power when the grid goes down-it’s your choice…


If anyone wants more info on this type of a system,e-mail me





Do more PT.


Caching Supplies

Posted: August 10, 2014 by gamegetterII in firearms, preparedness, survival, training, Uncategorized

Like the Boy Scout motto says-be prepared!

You should have caches of supplies hidden along your E&E routes,and around your home,or your retreat in the boonies.

The supplies should consist of medical supplies to restock your IFAK,and some additional wound treatment supplies,along with food,water,spare weapons, ammo,clothing,spare assault pack and ruck.

Depending on where you live-you can bury a lot of stuff in the ground. A 5 gallon bucket holds a little over 30# of rice-that can sustain a lot of people for a few day-or a few people for much longer.

Medical supplies can be stored in sections of 6″ PVC pipe with end caps-there are threaded end caps and adapters available so you can cut the pipe to whatever length you need.

Ammo can be stored in the PVC,5 gallon buckets w lids,or military grade ammo cans.

Supplies in your cache (s) should also include some basic tools-gun cleaning kit,solvent and gun oil,gunsmithing tools,maps and compass,knives,axes,hatchets,magnesium block and striker for starting fires,paracord,tarps,batteries for scopes,GPS,rangefinders,radios,wipes,and personal hygiene items,clean clothes-especially socks and underwear.

You should also have some water in your caches.

When you place whatever it is you are burying-or hiding under rocks-or whatever you have to do in your AO-in the container that it’s going to be stored in,open up an oxygen absorber or two-even three depending on how much you have in the container-all those hand and body warmers you see at the checkout in wally world are oxygen absorbers-just open them up-shake them,to be sure the iron powder is mixed up well-then place in the container just before putting the lid on it.

Food items-like rice,pasta,flour,sugar,salt,etc do not spoil when there’s no oxygen-steel and iron items don’t rust when there’s no oxygen.

The idea behind having s supply cache is that if for whatever reason, you have to dump all your gear-you have a place to go and resupply.

Your caches should be in hard to get to places-that way there’s less chance of others finding your cache.The farther out of the way your cache is,the better the chances that no one else finds it.Plus no one will be able to see you as you resupply.

There’s the PT thing again-you have to be in shape-be able to go get supplies from your cache-which is far away from the routes others travel-and do so undetected.

When SHTF-there’s almost zero chance that you are going to be staying in one place for long-you have to have supplies stashed along every possible E&E route- around your residence,and your bug out location.

You have to walk the trails/routes that others travel in your area,so you can choose a cache location that’s away from normal routes-the PT thing again-walk the trails carrying your full ruck.

You don’t want to find out that you can’t get to your cache when wearing your EDC plus ruck-choose your locations when you have all that shit on-it would really suck to find out it takes you an extra 10 minutes to get to your ammo cache when you have people trying to kill you closing in on you.

Having a lot of supplies cached is just common sense-the idea is to survive the coming collapse.





Do more PT !



Since it’s now August,a lot of tomatoes should be ripening,along with some of the various types of hot peppers, green and yellow wax beans,and pickling cucumbers should be producing the majority of their cukes by now.

This is when a pressure canner pays for itself,as it’s the only safe way to can green and yellow wax beans.

The bigger benefit to having a pressure canner is that you can take your tomatoes,peel them,remove the seeds,-(save the skins,and all the stuff that comes out with the seeds)-and cook them down into sauce or puree.

I have this old strainer I got from my grandma with a metal stand that is designed to fit over a mixing bowl,it also has a wooden pestle-(like mortar and pestle)-Google it if you don’t know that it is…

It is the perfect set-up for forcing the last of the tomato juice from the seeds,skins,and the membrane that holds the seeds in place-use the juice that you get by pushing all that stuff through the strainer to add to your tomatoes as they are cooking down into sauce or puree.

If you don’t want to go through all that-buy a new sieve that has a crank-type handle on it that turns a blade to force the stuff from the skins seeds,and membranes of the tomatoes through the holes. That is a much faster method-I just use my grandma’s because that’s how I have always seen it done-so that’s just how I process my tomatoes.

Once your sauce or puree is cooked ’till it’s thick enough-follow the instructions from the Ball Blue Book of Canning, and/or the book that comes with the pressure canner.

I posted links to a bunch of sources for canning info in a previous post titled- ” Gardening,Canning and Food preservation part I ”

Another benefit to having a pressure canner is that you can make your tomato sauce or puree into a meat sauce if you want to have already made pasta sauce on hand-great thing to have a LOT of for your emergency food supply.

You can also make vegetable soups-using  the tons of zucchinis and green+yellow beans you you should have now-and can that soup in your pressure canner.

Again-follow the Ball Blue Book instructions,or one of the other resources I posted in part I of this series.

To use up your pickling cukes-I make some into bread& butter type pickles,some into dill pickles,some into garlic dills,and some into hot dill pickles-using a variety of my hot peppers from the garden.

I do NOT use my pressure canner to make any kind of pickles-or a water bath canner-I cold pack ALL of my pickles,along with most of my hot peppers.

How to make cold packed pickles and peppers will be in Part IV.

Until then…





Do more PT !

Mrs. Starvin Larry in the garden…


Just about every survival,prepper, etc site has a list of shit you should have in a “bug out bag”

Not a single one of the hundreds of lists I’ve read mentions gun cleaning kits,gun oil,powder solvent,copper fouling solvents,or gunsmithing tools.

Why? Does everyone really think their weapon is gonna last forever without being cleaned,oiled and maintained?

Guns tend to fuck up at the worst possible moments when they are dirty-especially semi-auto firearms like the A-R platform rifles.

Even bolt-action rifles do not operate correctly when dirty-this gets worse in cold temps.

What are you gonna do when your scope ring screws get loose? Or your scope base screws get loose? Or any one of the hundreds of other things that can go wrong with modern weapons goes wrong?

You have to have a cleaning kit,with the appropriate brushes,tips,and patches, powder and copper solvents,gun or light machine oils,a set of SAE and metric allen wrenches,a set of torx wrenches,a set of picks,a small wire brush, a toothbrush,and a set of gunsmith’s screwdrivers.

If you use an A-R as your MBR-you need a special tools for that-(no idea what it’s really called-I call it an A-R wrench)-and you need a punch,or else you can’t take it apart to repair it.

I don’t know about anyone else,but I have the tools I mentioned plus some extra shit,in my bag-ready to go.

If/when there is any type of extended SHTF situation-I know I am gonna have the necessary tools with me-or else I’m fucked-what about you?

Please leave any thoughts, questions, ,comments, death threats, etc. in the comments section at the end of the post.



Some things I did not discuss in detail part 1…


Even if you live in a home on a small city lot,you can still make a compost pile.

Start the pile by saving all of your vegetable peelings and scraps,along with fruit rinds,apple cores,etc.

Add your grass cuttings,the leaves you rake up,coffee grounds,egg shells,the outer leaves from a head of lettuce,tea bags,all the stems and leaves you prune off of your garden plants-including flowers-(if your wife or girlfriend plants flowers)-if you plant flowers-and you’re a guy-your man card is hereby revoked.

Add a couple bags of manure,which you can buy at Lowe’s,Home Depot,or your local garden center. We have chickens,so we have a source for plenty of high nutrient manure for the compost pile.

I do a fair amount of woodworking and carpentry,so I have piles of sawdust to add,which helps a lot. If you use a chainsaw to cut a tree down,or cut firewood-rake up the sawdust from the chainsaw and add it to your compost pile.

If you live in the city/suburbs, in the fall,you can usually find all the leaves you can use,either raked in piles on the curb,or bagged up in the “special” paper bags the city makes you buy.

If you have a lawnmower that has a bag to catch grass,along with saving the grass cuttings,run over the leaves before putting on your compost pile.

Once you have a fairly large pile,you have to keep turning it over,or mixing it up,to speed up the process. You will notice that the stuff from the center of the pile is warm,that’s the things you have added breaking down into compost.Keep adding stuff to the pile as often as possible,turn the pile over every time you add new materials. You don’t have to thoroughly mix the pile every time,but you have to cover the new materials with the already decomposing stuff from the center of the pile. If it hasn’t rained for a week or so-water your compost pile,moisture aids in decomposition.

Wood chips are anther good thing to add to your compost,as is old mulch.

I help out a friend who owns a tree service from time to time,and he will dump a load of chips for me any time I need them.Those who live in the city can usually get free wood chips when you see a tree service taking a tree down,most will gladly give you as much of the chips as you want.

Just keep adding new organic material to your compost pile,and it will keep breaking the stuff down,and you will always have a supply of fresh compost for free.

Once your pile contains almost all fine compost,start a new pile,and add some of the old pile to the new,as this will help the new pile to decompose faster.

I took some scrap 2×2’s and a leftover piece if 1/4″x1/4″ square wire mesh,and made a frame that fits across my wheelbarrow-that way,I can screen any large pieces out of the compost I take from the pile.

All composting does is speed up what happens on the forest floor in nature-the leaves,dead plants,etc. are broken down into topsoil. So what you end up with is a free supply of what is a nutrient rich humus type soil. Be sure not to add an excessive amount of oak leaves,or pine needles,or if that’s what you have to use-add some crushed limestone to balance out the high acidity of the oak and pine.

One other thing I do is in the fall,when all my wife’s flowers die,I empty the potting soil from the flower pots into the compost pile,along with the dead flowers,just break up the roots and stalks/stems.

Those who do not believe in using chemical fertilizers can make a “tea” out of the compost,by placing some compost into a pieces of cheesecloth that’s held over and partially in a 5 gallon bucket,and pouring water slowly into it,use the tea to water your vegetable plants.

In the fall,after you’ve harvested your veggies,and tilled up your garden,spread a layer of compost over the garden,it will prevent weed growth,and the nutrients from the compost will leach into the soil from rain and snowmelt.

Till that layer into your garden in spring,and add a new layer and till it in-this should give you a nutrient rich garden soil-that means nutrient rich veggies from your garden.




Do more PT.

The site below has a number of great books on emergency medical care available as PDF downloads-these should be included in your medical references.

Special Operations Forces Medical Handbook

“A comprehensive reference designed for Special Operations Forces (SOF) medics. Download Special Operations Forces Medical Handbook, 2nd Edition from rapidshare, mediafire, 4shared. Developed as a primary medical information resource and field guide for the Special Operations Command (SOCOM) medics, the Special Operations Forces Medical Handbook defines the standard of health care delivery under adverse and general field conditions. It is organized according to symptoms, organ systems, specialty areas, operational environments and procedures. It emphasizes acute care in all its forms (gynecology, general medicine, dentistry, poisonings, infestations, parasitic infections, acute infections, hyper and hypothermia, high altitude, aerospace, and dive medicine, and much, much more) as well as veterinary medicine and sanitation practice under prim Search and find a lot of medical books in many category availabe for free download. Special Operations Forces Medical Handbook medical books pdf for free. Developed as a primary medical information resource and field guide for the Special Operations Command (SOCOM) medics, the Special Operations Forces Medical Handbook defines the standard of health care delivery under adverse and general field conditions It emphasizes acute care in all its forms (gynecology, general medicine, dentistry, poisonings, infestations, parasitic infections, acute infections, hyper and hypothermia, high altitude, aerospace, and dive medicine, and much, much more) as well as veterinary medicine and sanitation practice under primitive conditions.”

68W Advanced Field Craft: Combat Medic Skills

“The Combat Medic of today is the most technically advanced ever produced by the United States Army. Such an advanced technician requires an advanced teaching and learning system.”

Combat Medic Field Reference

“The ability to save lives in war, conflicts, and humanitarian interventions requires sophisticated skills above and beyond first aid. Today’s Combat Medic must be an expert in emergency care, force health protection, limited primary care,…”

Where There Is No Doctor

“Hesperian’s classic manual, Where There Is No Doctor, is perhaps the most widely-used health care manual in the world.”

Where There Is No Dentist

“This 2012 updated reprint features information on Atraumatic Restorative Treatment (ART), a way to fill cavities without the use of a dental drill, as well as updated information on other training material and resources.”

Another great book-


Supplement to the above…

Wound Closure manual-


Everyone should have the complete U.S. Army IFAK-(improved/individual first aid kit)-


The IFAK (Improved First Aid Kit) consists of six expendable medical items packaged into a specially sewn expandable inner pouch with elastic bands to hold each of the items listed below. The inner pouch containing the six items is folded over and has velcro seals so that the inner supply module(pouch) can fit inside of the outer sac. The inner supply module is attached to the outer sac by means of a coil cord which is attached to grommet hole on the corner of the inner sac and then into a second grommet hole at the bottom of a modified MOLLE SAW ammo pouch.

The IFAK increases individual Soldier capabilities to provide Self-Aid/Buddy-Aid and provides interventions for two leading causes of death on the battlefield, severe hemorrhage and inadequate airway. These capabilities increase Soldier survivability during dispersed operations and the expandable pouch allows for METT-C specific “add-ins”.


  • 1 – SOFTM Tactical Tourniquet
  • 1 – Elastic Bandage Kit
  • 1 – GA4-½” 100’s Bandage
  • 1 – 1 Surg 2″ 6’s Adhesive Tape
  • 1 – Nasopharyngeal, 28Fr, 12s Airway
  • 1 – 4 Patient Exam 100’s Gloves
  • I recommend adding the following:
  •  Add EMT shears
  • Add quickclot bandages
  • Add Dermabond
  • Add sutures
  • Add regular band-aids
  • Add Betadine
  • Add triple antibiotic ointment
  • Add a small bottle of saline solution for wound irrigation.
  • Add syringe w/out needle for wound irrigation.
  • Add aspirin,ibuprofen,tylenol-and if you have a few-prescription pain meds-such as Percocet,morphine,oxycodone,dilaudid.

Modify the kit according to your needs-it’s a great kit to keep in a bug out bag,or your hunting pack.


Those who live where they have the room to grow a large garden should be doing so,as it not only saves you money,it supplies you with a lot of food which you can preserve by freezing,canning,and dehydrating.

Just for an example,we just yesterday finished the last jar of tomato puree that we canned last fall,and last year was a really lousy year for growing tomatoes in NE Ohio.

We still have 6-8 pint jars of what I call chili base-it’s peeled and de-seeded tomatoes and a variety of hot peppers that makes it super easy to make a batch of chili,plus it takes less time,as all the hot peppers are already diced up and in the sauce.

We still have green and yellow wax beans canned from last year,and still have some frozen diced hot peppers,green peppers,and sliced eggplant,along with some shredded zucchini.

Even if you live in the city,in an apartment,you can grow a few tomato plants,and a couple of pepper plants in buckets,or large flower pots on your balcony.

I do the maintenance at a couple of condo complexes,some of the people there have huge zucchini and tomato plants on their small patios.

You can grow herbs like basil,oregano,thyme,and rosemary inside year round,in flower pots near south facing windows. Windows facing other directions will work,you just won’t get as much growth,as fast.

No matter where your garden is-a raised bed garden on a city lot,or a half acre garden,you have to amend to soil-which means adding organic material like composted manure(never put fresh manure on your garden-it will kill your plants)-compost,or peat,along with crushed or powdered lime if your soil contains a lot of clay.

To “loosen up” your soil,you need to add vermiculite or perlite-that’s those little white “rocks” you find in potting soil.

You also will need to fertilize your plants,I use a combination of leaf feeding,which I do with Miracle Grow,mixed at 1 1/2 tablespoons per gallon of water-that I put in a spray bottle,then spray on the plants until the leaves are wet. I do that once per week.

I also use a continuous release fertilizer which I place at the base of the plants after they have been in the ground for at least a month. Use according to directions on the package. I have used Miracle Grow’s continuous release fertilizer,and a couple other brands that are specifically for tomatoes. All of them seem to work about the same.

If you are not using fertilizers,you will have to use a lot of composted manure and compost,and rototill it into the soil both in the fall,and in early spring.

What I do is spread a thick-(4-6″)- layer of composted manure over the garden in the fall,after it’s been tilled,in the spring,I till that in,then add another thin layer-(1 1/2-2 1/2 inches)-along with some peat and vermiculite or perlite. If I’m working with soil that has a lot of clay,I also till some lime into the soil in both spring and fall. Eventually, the lime will break up the clay.

It’s not  good to use stakes made from pressure treated lumber in your garden-as the chemicals will leach into the soil-into your plants-and therefore-into you.

Starting out with canning is not all that great of an investment,water bath canners are around $20.00,you also need a pressure canner to be able to can some veggies-like green beans-plus with a pressure canner you can can soups,sauces,and meats.

You will need a set of jar tongs,a canning funnel,and a supply of Ball canning jars-with rings and lids. Also get some canning salt,and citric acid. Some recipes also call for vinegar and some type of oil.

The jars and rings are reuseable,the lids are not.

Get yourself a copy of the ball Blue Book of Canning-it’s about the best reference on canning out there,you can also get canning info from the USDA,and your county Agricultural office if you live in a rural or semi-rural area.

Go here for canning info from Ball…

Go here for canning info from USDA…

The free, 196-page publication can be downloaded from the National Center for Home Food Preservation website. The publication is also available in a spiral, bound book format from Purdue University. Single copies are available for $18 per copy, bulk discounted prices are available. Orders can be placed via phone (toll-free: 1-888-398-4636), fax (765-496-1540) or online at  Purdue’s The Education Store.

Those who are hunters can also preserve game by canning.

Having your pantry stocked up with foods that cost you very little-other than your time,is also a great way to be able to save $$$ that can be better spent on important things-like rifles,shotguns,bows,crossbows,ammo,arrows,crossbow bolts,and fishing gear.




Do more PT!

Those of you new to hunting are going to find out that it’s not like the tee vee shows.

You have to put a lot of effort into it. You are not just going to walk out into the woods,set up a treestand,and shoot a deer-it just don’t work that way.

You ain’t gonna be posting pics of the Pope and Young or Boone and Crockett 37 point buck you killed on farcebook or twitter,or sending pics to all your best buds on your smartphone-that is simply not reality.

You also are simply not gonna be a good enough shot to take a deer unless you target practice-a lot.

You also ain’t gonna get a deer if you are a couch potato-hunting is work-you have to spend time in the woods,you have to scout locations and deer movements way before the hunting season begins.

What you need to do,if you are a slug-(couch potato)-is get off your fat ass and start hiking in the woods you plan to hunt-you will need to work your way up to being able to do so carrying all of the gear you are going to carry when hunting.

This will take you about 6 weeks-unless you have been a slug for many years-then it may take 8,10,or 12 weeks for you to get in shape!

While you are wandering around the woods you will be hunting in-pay attention to the animal trails-it’s not hard to tell which are deer trails-if you don’t know what a deer track looks like-Google it-if you are reading this,it’s kinda obvious that you have internet access -use it.

What you need to figure out while you are wandering around the woods-the slugs will be sucking wind most of the time-so they actually have more time to look at the ground- is where the deer are bedding down,where their source of water is-(deer have to drink water at least twice a day)-where their food source is-and which trails they travel to and from each area.

Once you have that figured out,you need to figure out where to place your treestand or blind.

One of the most important things you have to consider is wind direction.

You always want to be downwind of the direction the deer are traveling.

If you are going to hunt in the mornings-what you have to do is get into the woods,and to your stand or blind before it gets light. You have to do so very quietly. One thing that helps is trail tacks,they reflect the light from your flashlight-which you should use as little as possible,and with a green filter lens-so the light emitted is green. Deer supposedly can not see the green light.

I don’t really trust that 100%-so I try not to use a flashlight at all. Walk the trail you will use to get to your stand as much as possible-at times when the deer are not likely to be in the area-

If you are hunting a location that is along the trail deer use when they start moving in the am-hike to your stand in the early afternoon,after the deer have left their bedding area.

If you are hunting an evening feeding area-hike to your stand in the morning.

Many states allow the use of bait and attractants-many do not-be sure you know the regulations in your state.

A good thing to do in states where it’s legal-is to place mineral blocks within shooting range of your stand/blind-starting in early spring,keep putting new blocks out as the old ones are used up-the minerals help antler growth. The deer also get in the habit of visiting the block at a certain time of day. Placing a block near your morning stand/blind and another near your evening stand/blind increases your chances of getting a deer by a lot.

If your state does not allow the use of bait or attractants-it’s no big deal-find the bedding areas,the water sources,and the food sources. Put your stand/blind downwind of the trail the deer use to go to and from one of these areas.

If you are going to use bait-where legal-place it near where your mineral blocks are located-this gives the deer two reasons to visit the location,and to stick around for a while.

I use some shell corn-(just corn that’s been taken off the cob)-and some cob corn.

The shell corn gives them some easy to eat food,the cob corn makes them work a little to eat the food.

That keeps them in place longer,and increases you chances of getting a shot.

Deer hunting is not that complicated,it just takes some effort-you have to scout out the place you’re gonna hunt,you have to be in shape-you can’t be trying to sneak into your stand/blind at 4:30-5am and be sucking wind after you walked 100 yards-get in shape!

You have to target practice-if you are bowhunting-you need to shoot at least 50-60 arrows a day-every day-at different ranges and angles.

If you are hunting with a shotgun using slugs-the best practice would be shooting clays,then shoot a few boxes of slugs a week or two before the season starts-just to get sighted in.

If you are gonna hunt with a rifle-shoot at least 3 times a week. I know ammo is expensive-you just have to shoot 3 groups of 3,3 times a week.that’s around a box and a half of ammo.

Give up the soft drinks-the coffee at the quickie mart,the fast food lunch-and you’ll be able to afford to shoot.

You have to exercise,you have to hike the woods you will be hunting with all the gear you will take hunting,you have to pay attention to deer movements,and food sources-because the food sources change depending on what is available for food.

When the deer stop eating one food,and go to another source-like when acorns drop-plan to move your stand/blind accordingly.

That’s the way you get a deer when you go deer hunting.

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The .22 rimfire is a great cartridge and caliber,plus it’s fairly quiet compared to a 5.556/.223.

A .22 can feed you if need be,capable of killing squirrels,rabbits,even a feral hog-if you make the right shot.

A .22 can be used as a defensive weapon,not my first choice,but if it’s what you have-by all means use it.

Some of the benefits of a .22 are it’s lighter than an A-R,or your average deer rifle-which means you can carry the rifle and lots more ammo for less weight that an A-R,and a lot less weight than a big game rifle.

While a .22 may not have enough “power” to take a guy out with one shot…what do you think it would do to one of the roving bands of gang-bangers we will surely see in any prolonged SHTF situation?

Empty a mag of .22 at one of these groups,and they will scatter like roaches in a cheap motel when you turn the light on. Many will also have.22 caliber holes in their bodies-which will cause them to bleed profusely,and cry for their mommy’s.

There are situations that call for serious stopping power-like an ’06 or a .300 Win mag,or a .454 Casull handgun, yet the lowly .22 is still a valuable part of any SHTF defensive weapons store ,is capable of providing both food and home/property defense,plus the ammo is cheap-(when you can find it)-as long as you have a plan to shelter in place,or plan to”bug out” to a different safe location-you should seriously consider having a semi-auto .22,or at least a good bolt-action .22.

I would go with a Ruger 10-22,since there are millions in circulation,lots of aftermarket parts are available,and it’s a very reliable rifle.

Do not buy a cheap-“off brand” .22 get something that’s a decent rifle,and built good enough to last.




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