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From WRSA-via RITR-Bracken’s books available free…
Bracken: “Castigo Cay” and “The Bracken Anthology” Free On Kindle Until Wednesday Night
Posted: September 8, 2014 by gamegetterII in Uncategorized0
Racially motivated assault at Kroger in Memphis, TN
Posted: September 7, 2014 by gamegetterII in Uncategorized From Matt Bracken-via Facebook…
This fight happened on September 6, 2014 at the Kroger at Poplar and Highland in Memphis, Tennessee. According to witnesses, a mob of teens attacked store employees at the front entrance to the store, and later an elderly customer in the parking lot.
Hands down the best source for books and Field Manuals-they have everything,a lot of it is free shipping,and unless it’s a book that was released in the past few weeks-they have used copies-lots of used copies.
I have found everything from field manuals to cookbooks on the site,found manuals for old engines,textbooks,any book in print-and many that are no longer in print can be found here-there are thousands of bookstores that sell through the site.
They have the best prices,no one can beat their prices for used books-and the condition is listed,most books have photos of the actual book for sale.
I have never been disappointed ordering from this site-ever.
Anyone looking for books on survival,military field manuals,field guides to plants,etc,canning and preserving foods,carpentry,mechanics,electronics,any subject you can think of-they have it covered-
Choosing the Right Broadhead
Posted: September 7, 2014 by gamegetterII in Archery, hunting, survivalTags: archery, hunting, prepping, survival
There is a plethora of broadheads on the market,fixed blade and mechanical, 2 blade or 3,even 4. They come in various weights and sizes. Most states have a minimum size for broadheads.
Here are Ohio’s regs-
Longbow: minimum draw weight 40 lbs., includes compound and recurve bows. The arrow tip shall have a minimum of two cutting edges, which may be exposed or unexposed minimum 3/4 inch width. Expandable and mechanical broadheads are legal. Poisoned or explosive arrows are illegal.
(damn-and I wanted to hunt coyotes and groundhogs with explosive arrows)
Crossbow: draw weight no less than 75 lbs. The arrow tip shall have a minimum of two cutting edges which, may be exposed or unexposed minimum 3/4 inch width. Expandable and mechanical broadheads are legal. Poisoned or explosive arrows are illegal.
The broadhead you use should be one that shoots well,and will have enough energy for clean kills from your bow’s draw weight,and the arrows you use.
When I’m using my compound bow-a mid1980’s Hoyt-Easton Gamegetter II- that I have set at a 68# draw weight,I use Easton’s XX75 Gamegetter aluminum arrows,with a spine-or stiffness- of 340. Look on the box when you are shopping for arrows,there’s a chart on the box that shows what arrows are best for what draw weight bow,weight of your broadhead, and the arrow length you are using.
I’ve been bowhunting since the early 80’s,after lots of experimentation with arrow/broadhead combos,and I do mean a lot-I probably spent enough $$$ on broadheads to buy a new truck-
What I settled on is the NAP 125 grain Thunderhead. The NAP stands for New Archery Products.
This is the broadhead…
http://www.newarchery.com/products/fixed-blade/thunderhead-9/
The mechanical broadheads work great with the newer high speed compound bows,as do many of the new fixed blades.
One of the keys is to practice with the same weight target tips as your broadheads,then go to the plastic practice broadheads,and when it’s real close to hunting season,use the broadheads you are gonna hunt with.
It takes a bit of research to make an informed choice when selecting your broadheads,read archery mags,talk to knowledgeable archery techs in your local archery shop-if you’re stuck with a Gander Mountain,Cabelas,Bass Pro Shops-good luck finding any sales staff that has even the slightest clue what the hell they’re talking about. If all that’s in your area is a Wally World-you’re out of luck as far as knowledgeable sales staff.
If you are shooting a newer,high-speed bow,or a crossbow,you can use the 80-100 grain mechanical broadheads,or use fixed blade-I don’t use the mechanicals as they have parts that can fail-if the blades decide not to open,or not to open fully-then you are gonna be tracking a wounded deer for many,many hours.
I know quite a few guys-and ladies who hunt only with the Rage mechanical broadheads,and most have never had one of the Rage mechanicals fail on them-but every once in a while-one fails-you could hunt for years,kill your limit of deer every year,and never have a failure-it’s just my personal preference.
There are advantages to the expandable broadheads-they are more aerodynamic,so more accurate,increases your chances for a clean kill.
There are also 4 blade broadheads,and broadheads with serrated blades. I would consider the serrated blades if hunting elk,moose,caribou,bear,or bison-or if I was hunting African plains game.
Here’s what the serrated blades look like…
http://www.newarchery.com/products/closeouts/thunderhead-edge-8/
The fixed blade broadheads I am referring to are those like the NAP Thunderhead-which have replaceable blades.
There are also fixed blade broadheads that do not have replaceable blades,like this…
http://www.newarchery.com/products/fixed-blade/hellrazor-10/
Here’s an example of a 4 blade broadhead…
http://muzzy.shptron.com/p/phantom-mx-4-blade-100-grain?pp=8
Muzzy broadheads are my second choice,if the Thunderheads are not available,and I need new ones because my son-in-law lost them in the woods when I loaned him my bow.
That’s never a good idea-I no longer loan my bows to anyone-the kid also put a nice long scratch in my muzzleloader’s stock,and a couple new ones on the barrel-that is no longer loaned out either…
One last type of broadhead is the old ones that look kinda like the old native American flint arrowheads,with a small insert that makes them a 4 blade broadhead-here’s a pic of those…
http://www.broadheadquarters.com/Wasp-Sharp-Shooter-4-Blade-Broadhead-100-Grain/
Great source for broadheads…
http://www.broadheadquarters.com/
The best advice I can give anyone,after nearly 35 years of serious bowhunting is to talk to the guys/ladies at the archery shop where you buy your bow,or research your bow online by reading reviews on sites of places like Cabela’s,etc,archery forums, bowhunting forums to find out the recommended arrow types,then match whichever type of broadhead you choose to the type of arrow you choose. I would try at least 3 different broadheads and see which one shoots better for you-some broadheads shoot better for some people than they do for others.
Don’t fall for all the hype and buy every new broadhead that comes on the market-been there,done that,got the t-shirts and hats to prove it.
Once you have decided on a broadhead,stick with it,shoot only the same weight target tips.
Weigh each broadhead when you buy them-the weights can vary significantly,most manufacturers will accept returns on the ones that are way off. Also weigh your target tips-same thing-weights can vary-a lot. Not really worth wasting your time returning the ones that are way off-the postage would cost you more than buying another dozen.
Brands that I’ve used that I would recommend are NAP,Muzzy,Wasp,Rage,and Swacker,stick with brands that have been around a while and proven themselves,the newest,coolest looking stuff usually don’t last long-the companies pop up like ‘shrooms after a rain,and disappear just as fast.
I use some of the blue Loc-tite on my broadheads,so that I don’t have to worry about loose ones,as the vibration from carrying your bow in your truck,and even from you hiking with the arrows in the quiver attached to your bow can loosen the broadhead from the arrow shaft-this is real bad for accuracy,and arrow penetration on game.
One of the reasons I use the Thunderheads is that after I find my arrow,all I have to do is replace the blades,and I can keep using the broadheads,never had anything break or bend on the tips,just had blades break.
Something to consider for the preppers/survivalists-there are steel 2 and 3 blade broadheads available that do not have any of the razor blade type inserts-they are just one piece of steel,machined or forged,and are reusable and easy to re-sharpen.
Hope this helps someone not have to go through all the shit I went through picking a broadhead-find one that you can shoot accurately,and stick with it-ignore all the hype that goes with every minor change in styles-stick with what works.
Read.
Learn.
Train.
Do More PT !
Four Things to Know About Mature Bucks- Article by Scott Bestul
Posted: September 6, 2014 by gamegetterII in UncategorizedGreat article on hunting mature bucks from Scott Bestul of Field & Stream…
Quarter Inch Groups
Posted: September 6, 2014 by gamegetterII in firearms, shootingTags: firearms, fishing, hunting, shooting, survival
Petzal sums the subject up nicely:
“If you’re looking for a quarter-minute rifle, you run into the fact that you yourself have to be a quarter-minute shooter, and there are not a lot of people who can turn in .250 groups. It takes a particular kind of ability of a very high order. And if that weren’t enough, you have virtually no margin for error, anywhere. Your ammo has to be perfect. Your judgment of the wind has to be perfect. If anything is even minutely wrong, you can kiss .250 good-bye.
Thus it is that we have broken the 1.00 barrier, and the .500 barrier will probably fall eventually, but I have my doubts about .250. Eventually we may have rifles that are capable of that kind of accuracy, but the shooters who can milk them for all they’re worth will still be in very short supply.”
I’ve been a hunter all of my adult life,and quite a few years prior to being legally an adult.
I have shot exactly zero 1/4″ groups,but I came close as possible with what I was shooting-that was at 100yds,with a Savage model 11 in .308,with a mid-priced Bushnell scope,using Federal Power-Shok hunting ammo.
That particular rifle generally shoots 1″ to 1 1/2″ groups at 100 yds,depending on ammo,weather,humidity,shooting position,temperature,and geographic location.
Point of impact in Ohio is way different than point of impact in the northern Rockies in Montana,and it’s slightly different in the Monongahela and George Washington National Forests in W.Va.
Petzal’s point-and my point is no matter what the capabilities of the rifle you are shooting-it’s only as good as the shooter.
The more you shoot-the better you get.
If your shooting is not improving-go take a class-learn what you are doing wrong-and stop doing it !
Read
Learn
Train
Do More PT !
Fundamentals of Fieldcraft: Packing for Partisans: A Conceptual Approach to Equipment Selection and Load-Bearing, Regardless of Position or Duties, with Specific Examples
Posted: September 4, 2014 by gamegetterII in preparedness, survival, trainingTags: prepping, survival
Reblogged this on starvinlarry.com
May be some guys new to this stuff who will find it to be very useful.
I’m used to humping hunting packs and gear-huge difference…Something everyone should read-and understand.
You gotta hump your gear in the field,or you’ll never know if the set-up you have is gonna work-or if it sucks.Now is the time time find out if your gear and the way you have it set up works-not when you need it,and are counting on it.
(This article is a revision of a series I wrote in the very beginning of the blog, entitled “Equipping the Guerrilla Fighter.” I have been thinking about this subject a great deal, since coming across a “prepper” manual on the subject that, while well-written, and well-intended, was poorly thought out and approached from ignorance of reality. Idealism is seldom a bad thing…unless it fails to be tempered with reality. Instead of focusing on specific items and recommendations, for the paramilitary guerrilla security force dude, or the auxiliary Home Defense guard, or even the underground operative, we’re going to approach this topic from a genuinely conceptual approach, so that anyone can look at it, from genuine Gus the Guerrilla to Polly Prepper, and figure out how to approach the issue from their own perspective and needs, with a systemic approach.
BTW–My apologies for the length. It was 22 type-written pages….J.M.)
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A View From A Professional: War And Then Some – Part I
Posted: September 4, 2014 by gamegetterII in UncategorizedThe war against America has already begun-this explains some it…
Knife Sharpening Techniques+Testing Your Blade’s Sharpness
Posted: September 4, 2014 by gamegetterII in knife sharpeningTags: hunting, Knife sharpening, prepping, survival
A couple good articles on knife sharpening/blade sharpness testing from Field&Stream…
“Sharpening a knife so that it is keen enough to sever your limb, or, less drastically, skin and butcher a deer, really isn’t that difficult. All you really need to render a serviceable edge is a stone, a little spit and a steady hand, and even the spit is debatable.”
I use a 3 stone system from Smith’s that has 3 different grit stones on a triangular block of wood,that has a base with two vertical supports which are notched so that the triangular block of wood the stones are attached to fit in the notches.
This is what I use to put an edge on every new knife I get-unless it’s a custom made knife-then it is sharpened correctly from the knife maker.
The key is being able to hold the same angle while sharpening the blade.
I use a angle between 20 and 25 degrees,except for fillet knives,which I use an angle of around 15 degrees,a less steep angle allows for a wider cutting edge,but it dulls faster.
One other very important thing to remember is to use the same number of strokes on each side of the blade.
After using the 3 stones,I use a fine diamond stone,then ceramic “sticks”. The ceramic sharpener can be either the set of sticks that goes in a wood block,or one of the pocket knife sharpeners that has both carbide and ceramic.
The last step in my knife sharpening process is to use a razor strop-or a wide leather belt-hey they worked for old-school barbers for a few centuries-so they obviously work.
In my pack-I carry a medium sized diamond hone that has a coarse and fine grit to it,along with one of the pocket sharpeners that has carbide and ceramic sticks,plus a diamond coated tapered rod for sharpening serrated blades.
Both of those products are made by Smith’s-and no,I am not promoting their products,nor do I receive any compensation for mentioning their products-they just happen to make what I was looking for when I bought the shit. Plus there’s the fact that the company has been making knife sharpening products for a very long time-like since the civil war era-or right after the war.
I’ve also used DMT sharpening products,they work great,then there’s the WorkSharp-which uses a sort of sanding belts,Lansky makes good knife sharpening stuff,as does Boker,who makes Japanese sharpening stones-Gander Mountain,Cabela’s,Bass Pro Shops,etc usually have good prices on knife sharpening products.
I use these guys sometimes…
http://www.usaknifemaker.com/sharpening-supplies-c-52.html
As well as Smoky Mountain Knife Works.
Use whatever works best for you,the important thing is to always keep your knives sharp-dull knives are how you end up cutting yourself,and ruining whatever you are cutting-finding out you have a dull knife as you’re skinning and caping the deer or elk of a lifetime is not a good thing,and could ruin the skin,which would ruin your trophy that you were going to hang on the wall.
Finding out your knife is dull during a survival situation also sucks-and could cost you your life-or the lives of your family.
Keep your knives sharp-all the time.
A dull knife does you no good.
Practice sharpening your knives until you can get a razor sharp edge on all of them in just a few minutes-which is easy to do,as long as you sharpened them right in the first place…
Read.
Learn.
Train.
Do more PT !
Starvin Larry 