Posts Tagged ‘hunting’

No B.S. Accuracy Tip: Sight In Your Rifle Properly

Posted: October 4, 2014 by gamegetterII in firearms
Tags: ,

From field& Stream magazine…

“Sandbags are great for shooting groups off a bench, but they might not give you a true zero under field conditions. So when you sight in your rifle, it’s important to use your hand as a rest for the last few shots. This tells you where your gun will shoot when you’re hunting.”

http://www.fieldandstream.com/blogs/the-gun-nuts/no-bs-accuracy-tip-sight-in-your-rifle-properly?cmpid=enews100314b&spPodID=020&spMailingID=7177074&spUserID=NjI2NzA0MjQyMzcS1&spJobID=540337616&spReportId=NTQwMzM3NjE2S0

“One of the largest bull elk ever recorded in Pennsylvania was killed illegally, along with two other elk, in Clearfield County in September. Three local men are being charged with “teaming in a poaching effort,” the Pennsylvania Game Commission announced yesterday.

In its statement, the Game Commission confirmed that the largest of the illegally harvested elk had a 10×9 non-typical rack that would have scored 432 7/8 inches B&C. It would have ranked as the third-largest bull elk in the state’s history. The other bulls were a 5×7 and a 4×5.”

http://www.fieldandstream.com/blogs/field-notes/poachers-killed-one-of-the-largest-elk-in-pennsylvania-history?cmpid=enews100314b&spPodID=020&spMailingID=7177074&spUserID=NjI2NzA0MjQyMzcS1&spJobID=540337616&spReportId=NTQwMzM3NjE2S0

Guys like this give hunters and hunting a bad name because to the anti-hunting crowd-they are hunters.

They are not hunters,they are scum sucking pieces of shit who need to spend years in prison,lose their rights to hunt in every state,pay fines that cover the costs of replacing mature bull elk in the Pa. elk herd.

I believe under Pa law,they will lose the rifle that was used to kill the elk. In some states,people lose all of their firearms,the vehicle used during the poaching,any camping gear they used,along with any other hunting gear and game processing equipment.

I could see shooting an elk out of season if your family had no food,these guys killed the elk,sawed off the antlers,and left the animals to rot. They deserve to spend years in prison,and pay the game commission the cost of replacing the elk they killed. When released from prison,they should have to perform at least 1,000 hours of work for the game commission improving elk habitat,and other wildlife conservation work.

These dumb fucks took a huge elk out of the gene pool of the Pa elk herd-that bull would have sired many young bulls that would have had antlers at least as large as his-and these idiots took it out to sell the antlers on E-bay. They killed the elk due to greed,nothing else. Then,they left the animals in the woods to rot,the dickheads could have dragged the elk to a point near the road,and made an anonymous call to the game warden and said an elk was dead near the road-that way at least the meat could have been used to feed  people.

People like this disgust me,they give the anti-hunting crowd fodder to use in their campaigns to ban hunting,claiming these pieces of shit were hunters.

Hopefully the local people cuss these dumb fucks out whenever they see them,maybe they’ll go to the local bar,and someone will smack the shit out of them. They deserve much worse.

Hunting and Fishing Post SHTF Part II

Posted: September 29, 2014 by gamegetterII in fishing, hunting, prepping, survival
Tags: , , ,

For those who intend on hunting and fishing as a big part of their food supply post SHTF,things will be much different than they are today.

The big game animals near any large city/urban area is going to either be shot out,or very skittish when any humans are in the area.

The farther away from urban areas-the better. There will be fewer people hunting the game,and the game will not be stressed and skittish due to a huge increase in the number of people in the woods.

The areas just outside of the cities outer ring suburbs should be okay to hunt,the game may be pressured and skittish,but as long as there are still signs,the animals are still there. Hunting will be more of a challenge,there will be fewer animals,and they will be even more wary of humans.

The key to taking big game in those conditions will be finding bedding areas,food sources,and water sources,along with the trails/travel corridors used by the game in the area. The best spots to hunt will be near bedding areas,and between the bedding area and water source,second best will be between water source and food source. Once you locate the trails,pick a spot for a blind,using as much of the surroundings as possible,use grasses,branches,sticks,leaves,downed trees,etc. to make a makeshift blind-unless you somehow managed to hang onto a few large pieces of camo burlap.

Pick your spots for your blinds-you should always have more than one,due to wind direction making hunting one location impossible,as long as your blinds are downwind of the direction of the game’s travel,you should be able to take a deer,elk,moose,etc. If the wind is blowing towards the direction game is most likely approaching your blind from-do not use that blind.

Using a compound bow or a crossbow would be the best method to use,if it’s at all possible,gunshots will likely cause game to scatter quickly,as the animals will not be used to the sound of gunfire-unless it’s common in the area due to fighting between groups of people.

One big deer,or an elk or moose will feed a lot of people. Some can be dried to make jerky,some can be smoked,some can be eaten right away. The bigger your group of people to feed,the better off you are hunting big game.

Another animal that will feed a lot of people is feral hogs-we are sure to see an increase in the number of them in any long-term SHTF situation,they multiply very quickly,and become very adept at avoiding humans. The number of them in the U.S. is growing pretty much monthly,with no signs of slowing down. They may be the one animal still available near large urban areas after most people have left.

Small game can be trapped or snared along with being hunted,and can easily feed smaller groups of people,and help feed larger groups.

Air rifles are great for taking small game,they are quiet,and a tin of 250-500 pellets can provide a lot of meals.

Rabbits can be taken in grassy areas when feeding early and late in the day,in winter,if you have a shotgun,you can kick brushpiles and many time a rabbit will take off from the pile.

Ducks and geese can be hunted near decent sized streams,ponds,lakes,rivers and bays,game like pheasants,chukars,quail,partridges,doves and wild turkeys can be taken in woods and in brushy areas. Pigeons can be taken in cities/urban areas-if you end up stuck in one.

Squirrels can almost always be taken in woods containing oak,hickory,beech,and black walnut trees.

You can make jerky out of the bigger small game animals,smoked duck,turkey,pheasant,or quail are very good,and will preserve your food for a while without refrigeration.

Fishing is kind of hard to predict in an extended SHTF situation,if too many people start using gill nets,large seines,and fish traps-the fish will disappear from smaller streams,creeks and rivers,along with smaller reservoirs,and river mouths and the bays where rivers enter big lakes like the Great Lakes,or the ocean.

Big river systems like the Ohio,Mississipi,Missouri,James,St. Johns,Delaware,Susquehanna,Columbia,Snake,Red,etc. should continue to hold large numbers of fish,as there are so many smaller streams that feed the river systems. The fish populations in big river systems will be hard to fish out.

The systems of reservoirs,such as the TVA should also hold plenty of fish for years.

Having a boat,canoe,even a small raft will be a plus.

The freshwater version of a longline-commonly known as a trotline,will be one of the best ways to insure a steady supply of freshly caught fish,there’s sure to be plenty of empty 2-liter soda bottles,bleach bottles and other plastic jugs available to use as floats,both to keep baits off the bottom a little,and as markers,so you can follow your line.

Lines like this can either be anchored to the bank,or allowed to drift if you have a boat of some type. Hooks can be baited with worms,grubs,grasshoppers,crickets,small frogs,clams,mussels,shrimp,cut up pieces of fish,minnows,even entrails from small game.

If you have managed to keep some fishing rods,reels and tackle,you will be able to fish in more conventional ways as well.

The fish should be available much longer than big game animals in urban areas,likely longer than much of the small game as well.

I  do have several spools of fishing line,several hundred hooks of various sizes,snap swivels,3 way swivels,sinkers,floats, and a wide array of lures.

Supplementing your survival food supply with fish and game is a good plan-relying on hunting and fishing as 100% of your survival food supply is a very bad idea.

That’s my opinion on the subject-it will not be like an extended hunting and/or fishing trip,and relying on only fish and game is simply not a good survival plan.

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Hunting and Fishing Post SHTF – Part I

Posted: September 28, 2014 by gamegetterII in fishing, hunting, prepping, survival
Tags: , , ,

I have read tons of articles over the years where people believe that they are going to survive simply by hunting and fishing post SHTF.

There are many things wrong with such a plan,number one being that most people simply do not have the skills needed to harvest enough fish and game to sustain themselves,much less feed a family.

The only scenario where this is a viable plan is when you live so far away from major cities that your location is not going to be overrun by those who have the same plans. Plus you have to have enough actual experience fishing and hunting to be able to catch enough fish,and harvest enough game.

Every area near major cites will have no game left in a matter of weeks,months at best. Fishing is a bit harder to guess,all it would take is a few small groups of people with nets to harvest all fish big enough to eat from a creek,stream,river,or small lake. Once that happens,it will be several years before enough fish big enough to eat return.

Many of those who plan to hunt and fish to survive are in for a rude awakening,they seem to feel that surviving a post SHTF event will be like an extended fishing,hunting and camping trip.

I’ll look at hunting first,starting with big game.It’s not like those who have spent their lives in the city are experienced hunters,of the few who are,the majority of their recent hunting experience is going on guided hunting trips. They are missing a very,very important part of hunting-the scouting,finding travel patterns,trails,knowing what food sources the game uses at what times of year,along with where those food sources are located. Another important thing to know is water sources,along with bedding areas. All north American big game animals,with the exception of bears, are ungulates,they eat mainly grasses and grains. Because of this,they must,no mater what,drink water at least twice a day-that’s why knowing the locations of the water sources for the game you are hunting is so important.

There are simply not all that many people who are going to be able to walk into a new area,whether in the state they live in or another state,and find currently used game trails,food sources,water sources,bedding areas,and know where to set up a blind,stand,or use natural cover to be able to harvest a deer,elk,antelope,bighorn sheep,moose,caribou,etc.

This is a good thing for those of us who do know how to find the right areas to hunt.

The problem is that all the starving people leaving the cites are going to scatter the game,making all the animals skittish. Some will actually shoot and kill some big game animals,most will just scatter the game,those who do take a deer or an elk are most likely going to have no idea how to butcher the animal. It’s not really something you can learn from a book.

Eventually,the city people are going to figure out how to do a deer drive,and will start having some success,that’s when the number of deer,or elk,or moose will drop dramatically.

The problem is that once too many people kill too many big game animals-the population of the animals is going to crash,there will not be enough fawns or calves born to sustain the population.

That will likely occur within 3-6 months. Then that’s the end of being able to hunt big game for food-with the exception of the truly rural areas of the country.

Small game will probably  last a little longer,as there’s more of it,and it’s harder for inexperienced hunters to kill. The inexperience of most of the city people will help the small game to last a while longer than big game. After they shoot a few squirrels and/or rabbits with their A-R’s,they will figure out that they need to be using a .22 rimfire,or shotgun with game loads-shooting a few rabbits with 00 buckshot will have the same effect as shooting them with a .223/5.56.

As with big game,small game populations will crash before long due to over hunting. Same with waterfowl. The waterfowl probably has a better chance-except for the Canada geese hanging around every city park east of the Mississippi-just because they migrate,follow rivers or coastlines,and are hard to hit when flying.

Those who live far enough away from big cities will be able to survive by hunting for much longer for several reasons. There’s more game,there’s more experienced hunters,and there’s fewer people hunting the same herds of game.

This is the only group of people who can survive by hunting both big and small game.

Fishing is a different situation,as long as you have some fishing line,and fishooks,you can catch fish from about any body of water,creek,stream,river,lake,bay,or ocean.

Those in or near big cities,unless on the coasts will have the same problem as with hunting-too many people fishing for what will quickly become too few fish.

Those farther from the cities will have fewer people trying to catch fish,so the populations should remain sustainable for quite a while.

Until people start using gill nets and fish traps extensively,a lot of people can survive on fish,it’s when too many are harvested that the fish will become scarce,and will take several years to recover.

That’s it for part I-in part II, I’ll get into techniques and tactics,along with preserving your harvest.

What to Carry in Your Hunting Pack

Posted: September 18, 2014 by gamegetterII in hunting, survival
Tags: ,

This one is going to address items to carry in your day pack,not a pack for a hunt where you are hiking in and setting up a base camp.

Most of the packs advertised as “daypacks” for hunters are way too small.

I use a 3 day assault pack that my son-in law gave me about 5 years ago,once he was out of the Army.

I’ll start with a list,then discuss how to pack your gear.

  • First aid kit
  • map & compass
  • water
  • thermos of coffee or hot cocoa
  • trail mix+energy/protein bars
  • poncho/rain gear
  • chemical hand/foot warmers
  •  fire starting kit*
  • duct tape-rolled around pencil or similar
  • 5×7 tarp
  • flashlight-not the $1.99 at wally world junk-a quality flashlight
  • gallon size Ziploc bags**
  • rope-at least 8’***
  • fixed blade knife
  • small diamond sharpening stone
  • hatchet or tomahawk
  • folding saw
  • hand pruners
  • 10x binoculars
  • paracord
  • camo face paint
  • camo balaclava
  • extra layers-fleece,sweatshirt,etc
  • complete change of clothes
  • extra pair of socks
  • grunt tube (only during rut)
  • doe bleat can (only during rut)

doe in estrous urine+scent wicks (only during rut)

*  my fire staring kit is a blast match,magnesium block,waterproof matches,bic lighter,fuel tabs for esbit type stove,cotton balls w/vaseline,and a can from .177 cal pellets filled with tinder.

I know it’s overkill,but I started carrying this kit after hunting in the northern Rockies in November,where not being able to start a fire could mean you freeze to death.

**Ziploc bags are for the heart,liver, and tenderloins.

*** the amount of rope depends on a few things,such as the terrain where you hunt,how you prefer to drag your deer,and if you might need it set up a shelter w tarp.

I carry a 12′ length of rope on the outside of my pack,attached so it doesn’t get caught on branches-I carry paracord,so that can also be used to set up tarp shelter.

When you pack your hunting pack,just use common sense-if there’s rain in the forecast,pack poncho and rain gear at top of large compartment,or in one of smaller compartments of pack.

The stuff that is least likely to get used goes at the bottom start with your complete change of clothes,then pack the rest of the stuff according to how likely it is you are gonna need it.

First aid kit,map,compass,fire starting kit,grunt tube,bleat can,etc should all go in outer pockets/compartments of pack.

First aid kit should be where you can reach it easily,I carry mine in my right cargo pocket,along with an epi-pen because I’m highly allergic to bee stings.

When hunting during the rut,your grunt tube and doe bleat should also be where you can reach them easily. I carry the bleat can in my pack until I get to my blind,the grunt tube goes on a lanyard around my neck,or strapped to the sleeve of my jacket.

When hunting in cold weather,I change my socks as soon as I get to my stand or blind-helps keep my feet warm.

I leave one pair of socks near the top of my pack,so I can get to them quickly.

Where you pack your extra layers of clothing depends on weather-if it’s cold,you will be adding layers soon after you stop walking,so pack close to top.

I carry a thermos of coffee with me,in cold weather,I wrap it in my fleeces and sweatshirts,helps it stay nice and hot.

I keep my snack foods in one of the outer pockets on pack.

The hatchet gets strapped to outside of pack. I carry an Estwing hatchet because I know it’s not going to break,and it will stay sharp.

You shouldn’t need folding saw, hatchet, or pruners-unless you have to move your stand/blind because the deer have moved,or the wind is from wrong direction.

If you have to set up in a new location,and don’t have the saw and pruners-you will wish you did,so I’ll put up with the extra 1 to 2# or so.

Make sure your pack is set up so that items are not bouncing off of each other and making noise-also check to be sure nothing is going to snag on brush/branches.

Pack the stuff you use the most where it’s easy to get to,pack the stuff that’s used the least at bottom of pack-make sure nothing makes noise when you walk-that’s really all there is to it.

If for whatever reason,you end up having to spend the night in the woods-you will be glad you brought the fire starting kit,tarp,poncho,rope and paracord,plus the hatchet and folding saw.

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Depending on what and where I’m hunting,I set up my camp’s “kitchen” differently,according to location,and means of transportation.

I’ll start with a camp you can drive to by truck or ATV.

I use the fire for a lot of the cooking,and also take a propane and/or a Coleman stove that will work with Coleman fuel,gasoline, diesel, or kerosene.

I take a 5 gallon water jug-the kind you see on the back of guys work trucks,an old enameled coffee pot, an assortment of cast iron skillets,dutch ovens,a griddle,cutting board,good sharp kitchen knives-(the same Henckels and Wusthof knives I used when I was working as a professional chef)-a pair of long tongs,a couple of spatulas,a rubber spatula,whisk,meat fork,and a set of 3 stainless steel mixing bowls that fit inside each other,the bowls are great for mixing pancake batter,making beer batter if we catch some fish during our down time,whisking eggs to make a big skillet of scrambled eggs,or a bunch of omelettes,plus

the steel mixing bowls,along with a larger enameled one are used to wash dishes.

All this is stored in plastic bins,as is all food that doesn’t need to be in coolers.

We use 3 folding tables. One is 2’x2′ or so,the other two are  about 4’x 2 1/2” each. The stove goes on the 2×2 table,the others are used to chop vegetables,potatoes etc. during actual cooking,and used to set up buffet style for meal times.

This set-up goes under a 10’x10′ pop-up “gazebo” thing the wife found at a local discount store for $50.00,or under an old-school dining fly-the kind that has one pole that rests on the middle of the table. If the location is in an area that’s full of bugs-like the black flies in Canada on spring bear hunts-I use an old Coleman brand screen house that’s 10’x10′.

The reason for bringing all this along is that it not only makes cooking meals faster and easier-if it rains,or is snowing hard-you are sheltered from the weather while cooking.

Plus the tables can be set up as one big card table if everyone’s stuck in camp due to weather.

I have a grill that’s 3’x5′-the kind you find in some campgrounds and public parks,got it when a local campground closed down about 10 years back. It’s just some heavy gauge steel diamond shaped mesh welded to black steel pipe like the type used for gas lines.

Also have a couple smaller versions of the same thing,except I used angle iron in place of the steel pipe to cut down the weight.

These are great for cooking over fires for a lot of people and/or cooking a lot of different foods,in different pans at once-like making bacon,eggs,pancakes,and sausage for breakfast.

When hunting in places we ride in on horseback,the cookware gets cut down to one 18″ steel skillet,one griddle,one dutch oven,1 enameled steel coffee pot,cutting board,1 chef’s knife,1 spatula,1 large fork,1 pair of tongs.

When backpacking in to hunt-all that changes to a backpacking stove,my old Boy Scout mess kit,along with canteen cup that is carried with canteens on my belt,I despise “Sporks”,so I’ll put up with the extra few ounces to carry a fork and spoon in my pack.

Since there’s not much actual cooking,mainly boiling water is all that’s involved when using freeze dried food-Mountain House type, MRE’s ,along with some good quality dried soups,instant coffee,teabags,and hot chocolate packages,I use the backpacking stove that uses a fuel bottle you pump up when using it,as it works better than the type that uses butane canisters. The canisters tend to work poorly in extreme cold,and at high altitudes.

The pump-up fuel bottles work at any temp. and at altitude,plus they can use Coleman fuel,gasoline,diesel, or kerosene. These stoves also are great to have for survival situations,as are the bigger 2 and 3 burner Coleman type stoves that use the same fuels in a tank that you also pump up.

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More Deer Hunting Tips

Posted: September 12, 2014 by gamegetterII in Archery, hunting
Tags: , ,

What a buck’s tail can tell you about his behavior-from F&S magazine.

http://www.fieldandstream.com/articles/2014/09/tale-of-the-tail-how-to-read-a-bucks-behavior?cmpid=enews091214b&spPodID=020&spMailingID=7087828&spUserID=NjI2NzA0MjQyMzcS1&spJobID=521272872&spReportId=NTIxMjcyODcyS0

Another deer hunting tip from F&S…

Avoid wearing blues and solid green clothing.

“Basically, whitetails are sensitive to blues and greens, and less so to reds and oranges.”

http://www.fieldandstream.com/articles/hunting/deer-hunting/finding-deer-hunt/2012/10/how-deer-see-and-how-escape-their-vision?src=related&con=outbrain&obref=obinsite

Hunting the Whitetail Rut and Pre-Rut

Posted: September 11, 2014 by gamegetterII in Archery, hunting
Tags: , , ,

As the days get shorter,and nights start getting colder,deer start getting ready for breeding-otherwise known as the rut.
There are some very effective ways you can hunt during the rut,and the weeks leading up to it.

The NE Ohio whitetail rut usually peaks the first or second  week of November.

The pre-rut activity starts about mid-October. The first week of October,there is something you can do to attract bucks to your hunting area.

Find a field/woods edge,or the edge of different types of cover that has some small trees,with branches that are about 4-6′ off the ground.

Make your own scrape line by raking an area about 3-4′ in diameter clear of all leaves,twigs and debris-you want to have bare ground. Make one of these every 50′ or so. Do not use any doe in estrous urine,doe urine,or dominant buck urine yet-use your own-just piss in the areas you just cleared.

Make these scrape lines near all of your stand/blind locations,but make sure they are near one of the main deer trails.

I start using doe in estrous scents the last week of Oct. put several drops in each of your fake scrapes,I also take some green cotton balls,and put some doe in estrous scent on them,put them in a zip-loc bag,and drop one every 100 yards or so along the deer trails that lead to my fake scrape lines.

As the peak rut approaches,add more doe in estrous urine to the fake scrapes,add some dominant buck urine,and start using some of the scent dispensers that you hang from branches. I use two types,the scent wicks that are dipped in the  bottle of estrous doe urine,and the type that you fill with the estrous urine,and as you get ready to hang on branch,the wick extends from the bottle-then when you leave-the wick retracts,and you re-cap the bottle for another use.

I pick up all of both types,and take them home in zip-locs.

Pay attention to wind direction,so deer can not catch your scent,and place your stand/blind,and doe in estrous scent wicks so the scent wicks send their scent in direction of the buck’s likely approach route.Place you stand/blind up-wind from the buck’s approach route.

In states where any type of scents or attractants are not legal-hunt the fake scrape lines you made-bucks looking for hot does are going to check the scrapes,dominant bucks looking to run younger bucks out of their territory are going to check out your fake scrapes as well-so hunt your scrape lines,go ahead and piss in ’em-as far as I can tell-there’s no laws against taking a whiz in the woods.

Pay attention to where the does are entering the areas your stands/blinds are set up-if you have to-move your stand/blind 10 yards or so away from where the does enter-does will bust a hunter far more often than a lone buck will,and many times,the buck (s) will be a few yards from the does-still in cover as the does enter an area-watch closely,and many times,you will spot a buck either behind the does,or a few yards to either side of where the does entered your area.

Hunt the scrape lines in early mornings,and again late afternoon ’till dark.

Hunt near water sources in mid-morning to early afternoon.

During the peak days of the rut,I will hang a few scent wicks-the kind with the bottle of scent-around a small tree,and hang a strip of white cloth from a branch at the height of a deer. Often,bucks will catch the scent,see the white cloth,and think it’s a hot doe-they just ain’t thinking clearly during the rut-kinda like when us guys think with the wrong head.

I’ve used this technique in the past,and had quite a few bucks walk right up to the tree with the white cloth-when they get to the tree-they still stand there sniffing the scent bottles.

This technique only works when there’s a breeze to cause the cloth to move-like a deer’s tail.

Bucks are more concerned with breeding during the rut-so don’t focus on food sources-focus on the scrapes you made-or scrapes you’ve found that a buck has made-and as I said water sources in mid-morning to early afternoon.

More on hunting the rut soon,using grunt tubes,and doe bleats and on hunting the secondary rut.

*** I know people are reading these posts-I can see the number of views and visitors in the site’s stats-come on-sombody make a couple of comments !****

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The Importance of Good Boots

Posted: September 9, 2014 by gamegetterII in preparedness, survival
Tags: , , ,

Lately I have run across quite a few guys who have top of the line rifles,packs,tents,sleeping bags and other gear-and they are wearing $29.99 Wal-Mart boots.

I do not have all the latest,greatest gear,or brand new rifles,or camo clothing that costs more than my rifle,or $300.00 knives.

What I do have are a few pairs of boots that are not some wally world garbage-I have 3 pairs of boots,my every day all purpose boots,made by Wenger-the company that makes Swiss Army knives. I found those on sale when I went into shoe store to buy new “tennis” shoes. Apparently they did not sell as good as the Timberlands that all the local gang-banger and gang-banger wannabe crowd wears-they were marked down from over $100.00 to $49.99. This is the second summer I’ve worn these boots pretty much daily,and they show very few signs of wear.

Next is my early season hunting boots-a very old pair of Danner Pronghorn 8″ boots with 400g of Thinsulate insulation.

I will be replacing these next year,as this is likely the last season I’ll get out of these boots-12 years for a little over $100.00 is a hell of an investment.

Last is my cold weather hunting boots,a pair of Rocky Blizzard stalkers I bought in 2002-same year I bought the pronghorns.

The Rocky boots are still in great shape,and will last me quite a few more years,they cost about $150.00 back in ’02,well worth the investment.

Had I bought cheap assed Wal-Mart winter boots in ’02-I would have been replacing them every other year since-and the total would have been far more than the buck fifty I paid for the Rocky’s in ’02.

When you wear cheap boots,you get blisters on your feet,your feet hurt,the boots wear in ways that cause you to walk abnormally,which is bad for your feet,ankles,and knees-plus your lower back.

Remember-when SHTF there will be no running out to wally world to get new boots-buy the best boots you can possibly afford-now,and wear them so they are broken in.

Good boots are as important as having a rifle that works every time you pull the trigger,if you are wearing shitty boots-your feet get all fucked up,you can’t walk right,which means you can not do patrols,you will lag behind on hikes,and it will fuck up your feet,ankles,knees and lower back.

Cut out the soda for a month,or drink less beer,or cut out the high-end beer,or don’t eat out,or skip the local bar for a month-there’s plenty of things most people can do without for the amount of time it takes to save up the $$$ for a good pair of boots.

Do whatever it takes-save the $$$ and get a good pair of boots-or two.

Good boots are as important as the rest of your gear-and more important then a lot of it-do not buy shitty boots-period.

 

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Choosing the Right Broadhead

Posted: September 7, 2014 by gamegetterII in Archery, hunting, survival
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There is a plethora of broadheads on the market,fixed blade and mechanical, 2 blade or 3,even 4. They come in various weights and sizes. Most states have a minimum size for broadheads.

Here are Ohio’s regs-

Longbow: minimum draw weight 40 lbs., includes compound and recurve bows. The arrow tip shall have a minimum of two cutting edges, which may be exposed or unexposed minimum 3/4 inch width. Expandable and mechanical broadheads are legal. Poisoned or explosive arrows are illegal.

(damn-and I wanted to hunt coyotes and groundhogs with explosive arrows)

Crossbow: draw weight no less than 75 lbs. The arrow tip shall have a minimum of two cutting edges which, may be exposed or unexposed minimum 3/4 inch width. Expandable and mechanical broadheads are legal. Poisoned or explosive arrows are illegal.

 

The broadhead you use should be one that shoots well,and will have enough energy for clean kills from your bow’s draw weight,and the arrows you use.

When I’m using my compound bow-a mid1980’s Hoyt-Easton Gamegetter II- that I have set at a 68# draw weight,I use Easton’s XX75 Gamegetter  aluminum arrows,with a spine-or stiffness- of 340. Look on the box when you are shopping for arrows,there’s a chart on the box that shows what arrows are best for what draw weight bow,weight of your broadhead, and the arrow length you are using.

I’ve been bowhunting since the early 80’s,after lots of experimentation with arrow/broadhead combos,and I do mean a lot-I probably spent enough $$$ on broadheads to buy a new truck-

What I settled on is the  NAP 125 grain Thunderhead. The NAP stands for New Archery Products.

This is the broadhead…

http://www.newarchery.com/products/fixed-blade/thunderhead-9/

 

The mechanical broadheads work great with the newer high speed compound bows,as do many of the new fixed blades.

One of the keys is to practice with the same weight target tips as your broadheads,then go to the plastic practice broadheads,and when it’s real close to hunting season,use the broadheads you are gonna hunt with.

It takes a bit of research to make an informed choice when selecting your broadheads,read archery mags,talk to knowledgeable archery techs in your local archery shop-if you’re stuck with a Gander Mountain,Cabelas,Bass Pro Shops-good luck finding any sales staff that has even the slightest clue what the hell they’re talking about. If all that’s in your area is a Wally World-you’re out of luck as far as knowledgeable sales staff.

If you are shooting a newer,high-speed bow,or a crossbow,you can use the 80-100 grain mechanical broadheads,or use fixed blade-I don’t use the mechanicals as they have parts that can fail-if the blades decide not to open,or not to open fully-then you are gonna be tracking a wounded deer for many,many hours.

I know quite a few guys-and ladies who hunt only with the Rage mechanical broadheads,and most have never had one of the Rage mechanicals fail on them-but every once in a while-one fails-you could hunt for years,kill your limit of deer every year,and never have a failure-it’s just my personal preference.

There are advantages to the expandable broadheads-they are more aerodynamic,so more accurate,increases your chances for a clean kill.

There are also 4 blade broadheads,and broadheads with serrated blades. I would consider the serrated blades if hunting elk,moose,caribou,bear,or bison-or if I was hunting African plains game.

Here’s what the serrated blades look like…

http://www.newarchery.com/products/closeouts/thunderhead-edge-8/

The fixed blade broadheads I am referring to are those like the NAP Thunderhead-which have replaceable blades.

There are also fixed blade broadheads that do not have replaceable blades,like this…

http://www.newarchery.com/products/fixed-blade/hellrazor-10/

Here’s an example of a 4 blade broadhead…

http://muzzy.shptron.com/p/phantom-mx-4-blade-100-grain?pp=8

Muzzy broadheads are my second choice,if the Thunderheads are not available,and I need new ones because my son-in-law lost them in the woods when I loaned him my bow.

That’s never a good idea-I no longer loan my bows to anyone-the kid also put a nice long scratch in my muzzleloader’s stock,and a couple new ones on the barrel-that is no longer loaned out either…

One last type of broadhead is the old ones that look kinda like the old native American flint arrowheads,with a small insert that makes them a 4 blade broadhead-here’s a pic of those…

http://www.broadheadquarters.com/Wasp-Sharp-Shooter-4-Blade-Broadhead-100-Grain/

Great source for broadheads…

http://www.broadheadquarters.com/

The best advice I can give anyone,after nearly 35 years of serious bowhunting is to talk to the guys/ladies at the archery shop where you buy your bow,or research your bow online by reading reviews on sites of places like Cabela’s,etc,archery forums, bowhunting forums to find out the recommended arrow types,then match whichever type of broadhead you choose to the type of arrow you choose. I would try at least 3 different broadheads and see which one shoots better for you-some broadheads shoot better for some people than they do for others.

Don’t fall for all the hype and buy every new broadhead that comes on the market-been there,done that,got the t-shirts and hats to prove it.

Once you have decided on a broadhead,stick with it,shoot only the same weight target tips.

Weigh each broadhead when you buy them-the weights can vary significantly,most manufacturers will accept returns on the ones that are way off. Also weigh your target tips-same thing-weights can vary-a lot. Not really worth wasting your time returning the ones that are way off-the postage would cost you more than buying another dozen.

Brands that I’ve used that I would recommend are NAP,Muzzy,Wasp,Rage,and Swacker,stick with brands that have been around a while and proven themselves,the newest,coolest looking stuff usually don’t last long-the companies pop up like ‘shrooms after a rain,and disappear just as fast.

I use some of the blue Loc-tite on my broadheads,so that I don’t have to worry about loose ones,as the vibration from carrying your bow in your truck,and even from you hiking with the arrows in the quiver attached to your bow can loosen the broadhead from the arrow shaft-this is real bad for accuracy,and arrow penetration on game.

One of the reasons I use the Thunderheads is that after I find my arrow,all I have to do is replace the blades,and I can keep using the broadheads,never had anything break or bend on the tips,just had blades break.

Something to consider for the preppers/survivalists-there are steel 2 and 3 blade broadheads available that do not have any of the razor blade type inserts-they are just one piece of  steel,machined or forged,and are reusable and easy to re-sharpen.

Hope this helps someone not have to go through all the shit I went through picking a broadhead-find one that you can shoot accurately,and stick with it-ignore all the hype that goes with every minor change in styles-stick with what works.

 

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