Archive for the ‘survival’ Category


You would think that after being called out by multiple groups,orgs and citizens,these idiots would stop with the lies…

Dan Gross,the Brady bunch prez,repeats the same old bullshit as he’s been repeating for years.

Maybe it’s an attempt to brainwash the libtards who read WaPo’s slanted heavily left drivel daily?

Lie #1-

“The Brady Law has blocked about 2.1 million gun sales to prohibited purchasers, including more than 1 million to convicted felons, 291,000 to domestic abusers and 118,000 to fugitives, according to the Brady Campaign’s calcalutions. That amounts to hundreds of purchases blocked every day over 16 years.”


Mr. Gross knowns damn well that the majority of NICS denails/delays are simply not due to convicted felons,thugs,dope dealers,and other assorted riff-raff attempting to purchase a firearm legally.

The delay/denial is most often due to the purchaser having the same last name or a similar name as a criminal,even the same first and last name,or that the purchaser’s SSN is 1 number off from that of a criminal.

Then there’s the .gov employees who enter the data in the first place,and the .gov employees who enter the purchasers name and SSN-they make a plethora of errors-daily.

As far as I can tell,there’s never been a year in which more than 100 cases were prosecuted as a result of a NICS denial-maybe that’s due to the fact that most denials are in fact false positive hits? That the person is really not a prohibited person,and the sale is allowed to proceed a few days later?

Mr. Gross does not present all the data-or any of the facts-he’s trying to push an agenda,not pen a factual op-ed piece.


Lie #2

“Federal law requires only federally licensed gun stores to conduct background checks on purchasers, leaving a loophole the size of Texas”


An outright lie,as the same FFL who has a brick and mortar gun shop,when selling guns at a gun show-must,by law-that’s current law by the way-conduct the exact same NICS background check before any sale is allowed to proceed.


Lie number 3 (really an addition/continuation of lie #2)-

“Federal law requires only federally licensed gun stores to conduct background checks on purchasers, leaving a loophole the size of Texas that allows virtually anyone in most states to buy a gun, no questions asked, by going online or to a gun show.”


Under current federal gun laws,any gun purchased online must be shipped to a FFL.

Mr Gross’ assertion that anyone can just order a gun online through e-bay,etc,and have it shipped directly to their home,with no NICS check is a bald faced lie…

He uses said lie to promote an agenda-and all the anti-gun sheeple bleat in unison -guns are baaaad,guns are baaaad.

Lie #4-or the final piece of propaganda in his op-ed piece-


“It’s simple; we need both to both get more records into NICS and expand background checks to all gun sales to ensure that prohibited people, including those who are a danger to themselves or others, don’t have easy access to guns.”


No,Mr Gross-we do not need either one of those things,as neither one would do a damn thing to prevent criminals or the mentally ill from gaining access to a firearm.

The only thing your proposals would do is create a federal database of gun owners,so that if,and it’s a huge if-you and the rest of your anti-gun,anti-civil rights cabal succeeds in getting private ownership of guns agencies will already have the names and addresses of many gun owners.

There is very,very little support for more gun control laws-despite the braying and bleating of people like you,and Bloomberg and his minions Moms demand whatever it is they are demanding-their message keeps changing-all we know for sure is that the group’s actual name should be Moms  against civil rights-it’s a much more fitting name.

The Brady bunch should change their name to “we want to ban all civilian ownership of guns in America” as that is their goal,as evidenced by the minutes from a meeting long ago,in which they stated that a ban on “assault weapons” was just the first step.

Then there’s Mr Gross’ long history of holding high positions in anti-gun orgs-

President of The Brady Center for Gun Safety 
Formerly Brady Center to Prevent Gun Violence 
Formerly Brady Campaign to Prevent Gun Violence 
Formerly Brady Campaign to End Gun Violence 
Formerly Center to Prevent Handgun Violence 
Formerly Handgun Control, Inc. 
Formerly National Council to Ban Handguns 


Seems that how he earns his salary-by braying and bleating about how we must enact more gun control-well Mr. Gross-way back when-you and your ilk claimed all you wanted was background checks-you got the NICS system-why don’t you just sit down and shut up now?





Those who live in states where the use of bait is permitted should start putting out corn now.

Use some shell corn,and some cob corn,spread the shell corn around,do not just dump it in a pile-as this can lead to the spread of disease from deer to deer.

I go to my local feed store and buy a block of what I call sweet feed-it’s a mix of grains,with molasses added for sweetness.

Since it’s compressed into a block,it keeps the deer at your feeding location longer,as does the cob corn.

The blocks are kinda heavy,but so what,it’s good exercise.

I also place some extra mineral blocks along the trails leading to and from the place I put the corn out,this also keeps deer in the area longer. Mix up the “flavors” of the blocks,around here,I use apple,acorn,stockman’s mineral blocks,and plain salt blocks. I buy a big salt block,then cut it up with a sawzall,using a pruning blade,I cut a 50# block into 6 pieces,which makes the salt blocks much more manageable to carry.

As soon as acorns start dropping,I’ll rake up piles of them from my yard,and scatter them among the corn and salt/mineral blocks.

Those who live where baiting deer is not legal just have to keep scouting your hunting areas,find out what the main food source is,main water source is,the bedding areas,and the trails the deer use to get from one place to the other. (you already did that back in early August,right?) Watch for acorns to start dropping,as deer will eat acorns over any other food source once they start dropping in significant numbers.

You should place your stand/blind along the deer’s route to the stand of oaks that are dropping the most acorns,just at the edge of the stand of oaks,as deer will hang back in the cover at the edges of the stand of oaks before entering them,as there’s more open space among stands of mature oaks than there is at the edges of the stand,where there is a mix of trees,and most likely some brush.

In either scenario,look for faint trails that do not show signs of heavy use if you are hunting for a mature buck. The main,heavily traveled trails are made by does and fawns,the older  bucks will walk their own trail,parallel to the main trail,usually no more than 10-15 yards back from it.

Pick your spot for your stand/blind,and hang a trail camera along the trail,then you will know what bucks are using the trail. If trail cameras are not legal in your state,take a small garden claw type tool with you,and clear all leaves,branches, sticks and other debris from several areas along the trail,if the ground is hard,pour some water into the cleared area to soften up the ground. Check the spots you cleared for tracks,keep adding water as needed,so the deer leave good tracks. Using this method,you can judge the size of the deer,and how often he travels the trail.

Yes,all this takes time,and effort,that’s why it’s called hunting-besides-the exercise is good for you!


I’ll post some rut hunting tips/techniques soon.



Do more PT !

Someone brought up the idea of creating a pamphlet,or leaflet type thing that we in the III%/preppper/survivalist/patriot community could hand out to people to let them know we are not a bunch of crazies,and that training and prepping are just common sense.

Anyone who has any ideas for a pamphlet/leaflet please either comment here,or e-mail me at

Someone brought up the idea of creating a pamphlet,or leaflet type thing that we in the III%/preppper/survivalist/patriot community could hand out to people to let them know we are not a bunch of crazies,and that training and prepping are just common sense.

Anyone who has any ideas for a pamphlet/leaflet please either comment here,or e-mail me at

I just returned last evening from a 5 day camping trip. This was not at a campground,it was just on a piece of property on which I am given written permission to hunt,fish,camp,and target shoot on. There is no city water there is no well water,there are no restrooms,there are no showers,there’s no sink to wash pots and pans in,or dishes. Had the wife and our 16 year old nephew with us.

We had to dig a latrine- in the woods-in ground filled with hard rocks and tree roots.

There is a nice lake on the property,fed from several small streams,some natural springs–and farm field runoff. Carrying water,filtering it twice,then boiling it and treating again with bleach is a lot of work.

So is cutting down dead trees-of which there are a hell of a lot-as the emerald ash borer-another invasive species from China-has killed every mature ash tree on the property.

After felling the trees,they have to be cut into logs,then the logs have to be split for firewood for the fire to cook on,boil water on,and sit around in the evenings.

We cut split and stack hickory for our cooking fires along with the ash.

Besides that-I humped a bunch of camo burlap and wooden stakes that have been spray painted a sort of camo pattern,twine,zip-ties, a 3# mallet, a folding saw,hand pruners,and a hatchet-along with a half dozen mineral blocks to insure the deer herd on the property stays healthy- into the woods either in my pack,or strapped to it.

Then set up a half dozen hunting blinds for the upcoming deer season.

Then there was the better part of a day spent cutting grass and weedwhacking the 500′ long dam that makes the lake possible,along with clearing a bunch of Russian olive brush that some dumb ass in the USDA decided made great windbreaks for farms back in the aftermath of the dust bowl-idiots-the shit spreads everywhere.

I did have some help in our camp-the wife took care of a lot of the cooking,and clean-up,the kid helped with the firewood,and hauling water. On day 3 our kid and her boyfriend showed up,so that meant lots more time for target shooting,which we did a lot of,even shot a couple boxes of clays.

I had started working out 5 days a week recently rather than the 3 days I had been doing-should have been working out 5 days a week the entire year-3 days a week simply is not enough-now imagine rather than just camping,clearing brush,felling trees,cutting them into logs,and splitting/stacking firewood,hauling and purifying water,we had to worry about people trying to attack us to take our supplies,and we had more than just the 5 people to feed and provide water for-and it was winter time in NE Ohio…


We just did this shit in the summer-and it took a hell of a lot out of me-even tired out the kid and nephew.

If you had to do this type of stuff every day-just to survive-and you don’t exercise much-you ain’t gonna make it-period. It would kill you,you would be so sore,and so tired,it would take everything you had just to keep the food,water,and firewood stocked up-you would have nothing left if you had to fight off attackers trying to take your shit-

They would just kill your out of shape ass and take your shit- kill your family-or maybe keep your wife and daughters for sex slaves-hell maybe even your young sons for sex slaves nowadays…

Think about that last sentence for a minute…


Still think there’s no reason for you get up off the couch,out of the laz-e-boy recliner,or up from the computer chair????


Do you know whether or not you can hit a target at 300 yds when you are out of breath? Hell-can you hit a target at any range after some strenuous exercise?

Try it-I’ll bet one hell of lot of the prepper community can’t hit a target at 100 yds after doing just 25 push-ups.

Been paying attention to the news? See all the bullshit that’s going on?

Still think you have time to get in shape? Just working out ain’t gonna cut it-you have to hump your gear in the woods and fields-you have to target practice for real-world scenarios.

If you need to take a class to learn how to do these things take a class-there’s plenty of guys offering training-Max,Mason Dixon,Mosby,DTG,look at the “blogs I follow” on left side of the page-while you’re looking at it-check out the III% Society-when you join-you get training discounts from those I mentioned,plus some others.

Don’t forget about comms,or intel-try Guerrillamerica for intel info,there’s plenty of guys offering comms info on the ‘net as well-don’t forget about the III% Society,and the training discounts offered by the groups I mentioned,and many more – that alone makes joining worthwhile.

Remember the sentence about how they would just kill your out of shape ass and take your shit?

You can still change the outcome of that scenario-but not by sitting on your ass,or buying more gear,or more freeze dried food, or more ammo,or more tacticool shit–you have to train,you have to have a team,group,tribe,neighbor hood protection team-whatever-you ain’t gonna make on your own,and you ain’t gonna make unless you train.






Do more PT !




We’re getting closer to the start of archery seasons in many states now,about 6 weeks or so to go.

Now is the time to check to be sure you have clear shooting lines from your stand (s) and/or ground blind (s).

Hike to your stand,carrying a folding saw,and hand pruners in your daypack.

Sit where you will be sitting while hunting.

Look for any branches or brush that would be in the way of you making a clear shot.

Trim all branches and brush back more than they will grow in the next month or so,you should be able to tell how much they have grown from when you set up your stand/blind a month or so ago. Trim them back at least 6″ more than you think they will grow-you want this to be the last time you trim stuff near your blind.Once you start trimming,place all the branches and brush you have cut in a pile,when done trimming,use the stuff from the pile to “brush in” your blind-you can also do the same to your tree stand,using some green or brown garden twine.

The idea is to break up the profile of your stand/blind,do it is not as visible to the deer.

The reason for setting up the stands/blinds a month or so back was so that the deer got used to them being there,and didn’t associate them with danger.

Now that they are used to them,go ahead and camouflage them up better using the trimmings from cutting your shooting lanes. If that’s not enough,trim off more twigs and branches from surrounding trees and shrubs.

The object is not to make your blind/stand to look like something-it’s to make it look like nothing-same idea with your personal camo.

Good explanation of camouflage here…


Camo is a concept (i.e., how to blend into one’s environment), not a pattern.”

While the above is for personal camo- many of the same things apply to your stand/blind.

The thing you are trying to do is to make your blind/stand appear to be just a part of the forest,field,swamp-wherever it’s located.

You don’t want to try and make it look like a tree or shrub-you want to try to make it look like it’s a part many trees/shrubs-not a blob that’s got some branches sticking out of it.

It’s not an easy thing to explain-camo is a concept,it’s not any one pattern for your clothing,or your blind/stand-you want to blend into your surroundings,look like just a normal part of the field/swamp/forest when someone-or some animal-looks at the location you want them to see a part of the surroundings-not something that does not blend in.

I’ll post some pics soon-I’m just not all that great at taking cell phone pics-then getting them onto the computer-then finding them again to post.

I may have to seek the help of the kids.

Once you have your blind/stand brushed in,and it blends in with it’s surroundings,start putting out corn if it’s legal where you live. I do not use feeders here in Ohio,I just  spread some shelled corn on the ground-not in a pile-spread it around about a 6′ diameter circle,add some cob corn to the area as well. Not putting the corn in a pile not only keeps the deer in one place longer,it helps to prevent the spread of disease between deer.

Check your mineral blocks-if they have been mostly licked down to the halfway point or more-put new ones out. I’ll add some regular salt blocks now too-I buy the stockman’s blocks with added minerals when they’re on sale,and use some of both regular salt block,and salt+ minerals.

Remember,you are putting them out not only to attract the deer,but to help keep the local deer herd  healthy,and to insure the bucks have the nutrients they need to grow big racks.

I buy a large block at the feed store,or Tractor Supply,then I cut it up into blocks about the size of the mineral blocks. Cut them at least 2-2 1/2″ thick,3-4″ wide,and 8-12″ long.

I use a pruning blade on a sawzall to cut up the big block-goes through it like it’s cutting butter.

Remember to visit each stand/blind at times when deer are least likely to be in the area.

Since you’re in the woods-be sure to check the deer trails to see what their main food source is,then figure out when they will go from that to acorns,and plan your hunts accordingly.

Check your trail tacks or surveyors tape to make sure all your trails are still clearly marked.

That’s it for this one-more coming soon.




Do more PT !

More on hunting with muzzleloaders

Posted: August 17, 2014 by gamegetterII in firearms, hunting, shooting, survival
Tags: , , ,

Those of us with older .50 caliber muzzleloaders,or the inexpensive .50 caliber inlines that can not handle the 150grain magnum charges can still use some of the technological advances in muzzleloading bullets.

The combo of a .44 caliber hollow point bullet-such as the Hornady XTP,and green plastic sabot for use in .50 caliber muzzleloaders is one good combo to use ,another is the line of PA conical bullets from Hornady.

I am not a Hornady spokeperson,nor do I benefit in any way from mentioning their products.

I use the 240 grain .44 caliber XTP jacketed hollow point bullet with green sabot over a 95 grain charge of Triple 7 as my main hunting load in most of the places I hunt in Ohio.

In a couple of places,I use the 240 grain PA conical,as it is heavier than a round ball,and does not require use of a lubed cloth patch. Hornady claims no patch is needed,but I have found the bullets perform much better with a felt patch between powder charge and bullet. Some states require you to use lead round ball or conical bullets during their muzzleloader seasons.

Both will give you great accuracy out to 100 yards,the .44 caliber XTP bullet with green sabot gives good accuracy out to 150 yards in both of my muzzleloaders.

For feral hogs,I use the 385 or 425 grain PA conicals,or the 300 grain XTP’s,when elk hunting with muzzleloader,I cough up the extra $$$, and buy a box of 300 grain Swift A-Frames.

Since I have a newer-(last year)- inline,I’ll use a .45 caliber 240,or 250 grain XTP bullet,with the black sabot as my first round for hunting,as they get a little better velocity,and have more energy. The problem with them is they quickly foul the barrel,making reloads difficult.

I also bought a box of 230 grain lead round nosed bullets to use for target shooting,along with the black sabots for use in .50 caliber muzzleloaders.

They are accurate,and hit to almost the exact same point of impact as the .44 caliber 240 grain XTP’s with green sabot.

The problem is that at ranges much over 50 yards,they start hitting way to the left-as in 3-4″ at 75 yards,and 10-12″ at 100 yards.

I believe that’s due to the powder charge not being 150 grains,causing the bullet to de-stabilize at ranges greater than 50 yards.

Since they are accurate to 50 yards,I’ll use up the remainder of the 200 round box I bought for target practice at 50 yards or less.

I’ll continue to use the Hornady XTP as my hunting bullet,they do not shoot the best out of all muzzleloaders,but they shoot the best out of mine.

Try as many different bullet/sabot combos as it takes until you find one that gets you 3″ or better groups at 100 yards,if you are using an inline with scope-sight it in at 100 yards-that way you will hit a couple inches high at 50 yards,and a few inches low at 150 yards-still in the vital organs of deer sized game.

If you are using iron sights and no scope,sight in at 50 yards because you aren’t going to be taking many shots beyond 50-100 yards,so a 50 yard zero is fine.

If your muzzleloader is like my older CVA,it’s not accurate until a couple of shots have been fired through it. I take mine out and fire 3 shots,run a couple of dry patches down the barrel a day or two prior to hunting season,and leave it like that until the end of the week-or 2 weeks depending on your state’s season-or until I get a deer before thoroughly cleaning it.

Be sure you target shoot at a bunch of unknown distances,and shoot from a variety of angles and firing positions in the months prior to hunting season-that way,you have a much,much better chance of making a kill shot on a deer.




Do more PT !

In this post,I’m going to focus on sidelocks,and modern inlines,the poor man’s inlines,not the high dollar Thompson Centers etc.

In many states,as long as it’s a muzzleloader,it’s legal to hunt deer with in muzzleloader or “primitive weapons” seasons.

Some states,such as Pa,restrict hunters to using only flintlocks during muzzleloader/primitive weapons season.

I do not currently own a flintlock,and have only limited experience with them,so I will not be writing about them.

I currently use two muzzleloaders for hunting,and old-(mid 80’s or so)- CVA Woodsman,and a new-(last year)- Traditions Buckstalker.

Neither of these perform well with any of the high velocity bullet/sabot loads.

You can’t load 150 grain charges in them,so the bullets do not stabilize properly in flight,and end up hitting far to the left. 10″ at 100 yards for my Buckstalker,using the black sabots,and the 240 grain round nose lead bullets that I bought a box of 200 of to use for target practice. They are accurate out to 50 yards or so,and have almost the same point of impact as my hunting load at ranges up to the 50 yards,at which point they start hitting to the left-3-4″ at 75 yds,10″ or so at 100 yds.

I can use either pellets or powder in my Traditions Buckstalker,but only powder in my CVA Woodsman-so I use powder in both.

I prefer Triple7 over Pyrodex,as you get higher velocity with the same amount of powder.

You use FFG equivalent powder in muzzleloading rifles,you can also use FFFG as long as you are using .50 caliber and under.

There is a big difference in velocity with the FFFG,I use it for my hunting load,95 grains of Triple7,with a 240 grain  .44 caliber Hornady XTP bullet,with the Hornady green sabots.

I buy the bullets in boxes of 100 from Midway USA,or any of the plethora of online sellers of bullets.

I use the .44 caliber bullets with the green sabots because I can use them in my old CVA,and my new traditions.

Another reason I use powder, not pellets is because I can use a lighter powder charge for target shooting-I don’t have to use a 100 grain charge-(2  50 gr  pellets),or an 80 grain charge-( one 50 gr and one 30 gr pellet).

I use 70 grains to target shoot,except for the month before hunting season,then I use the 95 grain charge,and the XTP bullets.

I target shoot with the 230 gr round-nosed lead bullets,because the have almost the same point of impact as the 240gr XTP’s, and a box of 200 and the sabots to go with them only cost about 50 bucks including postage.

Beats the hell out of paying $15.00 or so for a package of 20 bullets with sabots.

100 240 gr .44 caliber Hornady XTP’s plus sabots only costs about 50 bucks including postage-again-beats the hell out of $15.00 for 20 bullets+sabots.

With the newer inlines that use the 209 shotshell primer,you get more accuracy,and can make longer shots. Using my Buckstalker,I can put 3 shots into a 3″ group at 100 yds,and a 4-5″ group at 150 yards,more than accurate enough for a kill shot on a deer,elk,or a feral hog at those ranges.

I’ve tried a lot of different bullet and sabot combos,patched round balls,and conical bullets that are sorta like an improved minie ball. The best load I’ve found is the Hornady XTP and XTP magnum. The load I found to be the best for what I hunt is the .44 caliber 240 gr jacketed hollow point XTP with the Hornady green sabots.

Using 100 grains of Triple 7 FFG I get 1820 fps,using FFFG Triple 7, I get 1970fps.

The 95 grain charge gives me almost the same velocity,and seems to be the best charge to use,I get the same accuracy,about the same velocity, a little bit less of a smoke cloud after the shot.

Any charge between 80 and 120 grains works in the Buckstalker,in the old CVA,I never use more than 100 grains.

You have to try different powder charges,and different bullet/sabot combos to see what works best for you.

Most older muzzleloaders are more accurate after a few shots have been fired.

That doesn’t seem to be the case with the newer inlines,as my Buckstalker has the same point of impact for 3-4 shots,then begins to lose accuracy until I run a patch or two down the barrel.

I choose which muzzeloader to use based on where I’ll be hunting,if it’s going to be mainly close range shots-under 50 yds,I use the CVA sidelock,if most shots are going to be beyond 50 yds,I use the Traditions.

Another bullet to try is the newer conicals,you will need a felt patch between the bullet and the powder charge for optimum accuracy and velocity.

Most of the conicals bullets are heavier than the 200-300 gr range of the most popular bullet/sabot combos.

The conicals have the “knockdown power” of the jacketed hollow points,but don’t have the velocity. They will take all North American big game animals.

After you have tried a variety of bullets,and bullet/sabot combos,pick which type works best for you,then pick the exact bullet,or bullet sabot combo that works best for you,in your muzzleloader.

I picked my load after a few years of shooting a whole lot of different bullets,it’s what works best for me,it may work for you-it may not.

Some other bullets work good,but I have not found anything that beats the performance of the Hornady XTP in my muzzleloaders-if you have a top of the line,newer inline,there are 150 grain powder charges/bullet combos that will work better for you.

If you are like me,and can not afford to buy the top of the line muzzleloaders-you can’t go wrong using the Hornady .44 caliber 240 grain JHP XTP bullet with the green Hornady sabot.

Some other great bullets to use are- Sierra Sports Master 240gr JHP,Nosler Sporting Handgun .44 caliber 240 gr JHP-(handgun bullets work just fine in muzzleloading rifles)-Swift A-Frame Bullets 44 Caliber 240 Grain bonded hollow point, Speer deep curl,Barnes XPB, Winchester Silvertips,

Then there’s these…Hunters Supply hard cast Bullets,Goex Black Dawge Bullets,Montana Precision Swaging Cast Bullets 44 Caliber (440 Diameter) 380 Grain Lead Straight Sided Paper Patch.

As you can see-there’s a lot of choices out there,including patched round balls-which were killing deer,elk,bison,feral hogs,bears,cougars,wolves,and any other game animal long before any of us were born.

When hunting,you want to be able to reload as fast as possible. There are “speedloaders” available from many companies,they are just an plastic tube with removeable caps on the ends,the diameter matches the caliber you are using,and you can put your pellets or powder,along with your bullet and sabot,or bullet and paper patch,or felt patch in the tube.

Since I use powder,not pellets,I put the measured powder charge and bullet already in the sabot in the tube. Then,all I have to do to reload is dump the powder down the barrel,start the bullet in the barrel with the plastic bullet starter I carry on a string around my neck,then use the ramrod that’s attached to the muzzleloader to seat the bullet on top of the powder charge. If I’m using my CVA sidelock,I put a percussion cap on,if I’m using the inline,I break it open-(like a single or double barreled shotgun)-and place a 209 shotshell primer in the breech plug,and I’m ready to shoot again. There are plastic “dogbones” for sale to hole 209 primers-get one-beats the hell out of trying to pick a primer out of the box with half frozen fingers !

I know the above description sounds like a lot to go through to reload-but it takes 30 seconds or less with practice.

Hunting big and medium sized game with a muzzleloader is not much different than hunting with a rifle or a shotgun using slugs. You still have to do your scouting,find the food and water sources,along with the bedding areas,and trails to and from theses areas. The newer inlines are more like rifle hunting,it’s just a lot more important to make your first shot count,because it takes so much longer to reload.

You do have more range than a shotgun with slugs for the most part-unless you have a rifled barrel for you shotgun,then it’s about the same range.

With the muzzleloader using loose powder,you have as much control over the load you use as you do if you are reloading your rifle ammo.

I use my inline during Ohio’s shotgun season,because I can make a longer shot,since I don’t have a rifled barrel.

Plus I get strange looks when using my Mossberg 590 for deer hunting-must be the heat shield…

You can get a new inline like the traditions Buckstalker I have for under $200.00,add another $50-75.00 for all the accessories you will need,and for under $300.00 you have a rifle that’s fun to shoot,is accurate,and can take any big game animal in the USA-even a Kodiak brown bear.

You can also find used muzzleloaders for under $150.00 at most gun shops-just be sure to inspect the barrel to make sure it’s not corroded due to poor cleaning practices.

Another benefit is you get more time to hunt with a gun,as most states have a season for muzzleloaders only.

If you don’t have a muzzleloader-try shooting one-it’s fun,less expensive than shooting most rifles,and it’s a great back-up weapon to have in case you run out of ammo during a SHTF situation…



Do more PT.

Tips on processing your own deer

Posted: August 11, 2014 by gamegetterII in food preservation, hunting, preparedness, survival

Once you have shot your deer-whether by bow,shotgun or rifle,the first thing you have to do is field dress it. One of the most important things is to cool the meat down as fast as possible. This means getting the deer back to camp,or home,get it hung up and skinned as soon as possible,if it’s hot outside,pack the chest cavity of the deer with ice,both on the trip home,and once the deer is hanging up.

Venison tastes better if it’s aged for about 5-7 days,if temps are 40 degrees or cooler,you can let the deer hang in your garage,shed,barn,wherever.

If temps are above 40 degrees,butcher the deer,and the meat can be aged in coolers with ice,or in a refrigerator for the same 5-7 days. Aging the meat allows the muscles-which is what meat is- to relax,which makes it more tender.

Butchering a deer is a fairly simple process,there’s a ton of You Tube videos that show the process step by step,and an equal number of books on butchering wild game.

One of the keys to good tasting venison is to remover every bit of fat from the meat-venison fat tastes nasty-cut all of it off.

To improve the flavor of your ground venison-do not grind pork or pork fat into the meat-grind some beef fat into it.

You want to get about an 80-20 ratio of meat to fat,it doesn’t have to be exact,make it 90-10 if you want low-fat ground meat,but remember,the low fat meat has less flavor,and does not make good meatloaf,meatballs,etc. Any more than 20% fat,and you have greasy meat that shrinks to half the size when you make a burger out of it.

I get beef fat from our local grocery store’s meat dept. they only charge me between 59-79 cents per pound.That’s a great price,for under 10 bucks,you get enough beef fat to grind into 50# of venison.

Always grind the meat twice,it breaks down any connective tissue and small bits of silverskin you missed when trimming the meat,plus it mixes the fat in better.

A vacuum sealer machine is the best way to package and freeze your venison,if you don’t have one,use plastic wrap,butcher’s paper,then place the packages in a Ziploc type freezer bag.

I cut a few nice roasts from my deer,and instead of removing the entire “backstrap”,which is the loin,I leave it on,because I cut some t-bones and strip steaks on my bandsaw,then cut out the remaining parts of the backstraps.

Most of the meat is cut up for stew meat,and ground venison. You should end up with about half of the weight of the deer,after it’s been field dressed.

A 150# deer,weighed after it’s been field dressed,will give you about 75# of meat.

I live in Ohio,our deer get really big because they eat a lot of corn and soybeans from the farm fields. I usually end up with around 90# of meat from the deer I get here.

Those of you who hunt deer a lot should look into investing in an electric grinder,makes the process go much faster than using a hand crank grinder that clamps on to your table.

I still have a couple hand crank grinders,I keep them because there could be a SHTF situation in which we have no power from the grid for weeks or months-maybe longer.

All it took was a tree branch to cause a blackout that shut down all power in Ohio,Pa,Ny,and parts of Canada for several days a few years ago-you should always have the means to survive without power,or with a back-up power source in case a similar blackout happens,or the people who shot the transformers at a substation in CA decide to shoot up multiple substations ,in multiple states.

Like the Boy Scouts say-be prepared.





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There’s a very god chance that during any SHTF event-the grid is going to go down.

How are you going to keep your food cold,frozen foods frozen,have lights,Tee Vee,internet-(if it hasn’t been shut down by TPTB)-and charge your cell phone,GPS,etc.?

Keeping your food cold is important-so is being able to re-charge the batteries for cordless tools.

The cell phone is only important if you have no other means of communication-it may well end up being useless after a short period of time. Most cell towers have back-up power at least the important ones. This means you may have some ability to communicate by cell phone for a day or two.

You do have other means of communicating with other friends family-and your tribe,group,whatever you call your friends who are aware of the chances of a SHTF event right?

Someone in your tribe has their HAM license and radio right?

Solar panels are a good thing to have-they just don’t generate much power in some locations.

Small windmills work great if you have a decent amount of wind in your location.

Micro-hydro works – if you have a stream very near your location.

A combination of wind and solar will work in all locations-with some planning.

There’s another thing to add to the combination as long as there’s some wind in your location. Windmills have been used for a couple hundred years to pump well water-what you need are two large plastic water tanks-250-500 gallons are an ideal size,tank size depends on power needs.

One tank gets placed at ground level-or in your basement-the other needs to be elevated,can use the attic of your house as long as you reinforce the framing,or just use the tower the windmill is on if you want to-all that you need is one tank higher than the other-the greater the height difference,the more power you can generate.

The system is based on having a fairly large bank of deep cycle batteries-that’s your biggest expense,and at least one power inverter.

Here’s the basics-the windmill pumps water to the upper tank,when there’s no wind,a small battery powered pump takes care of pumping water to the upper tank when there’s no wind.


Using the windmill to pump water from the lower tank to the higher tank when there’s wind,and using battery power provided by solar panels to power a small 12 volt pump-(think bilge pump from bass boat or ski boat)- when there’s not enough wind,then the water from the upper tank is drained through a series of progressively smaller PVC pipe until it hits just above the level of the lower tank. The stream of water then turns a small water wheel-(think old time mill on a river using river’s flow to turn the huge millstone to grind wheat and corn)-that’s placed inside a piece of PVC pipe that’s epoxied to the inlet to lower tank. The small wheel can even be a car or truck alternator-or it can turn a shaft that then turns a magneto type generator with a voltage regulator  to be sure the batteries do not get voltage higher than the 18 volts most car and truck alternators put out. The water wheel could also turn a generator that puts out AC power-but then it gets into more complicated electrical engineering.

With this type system-the water is always moving,always producing power-and there are two methods of pumping the water to the upper tank-the direct power from the windmill turning a shaft that turns a pump-and the battery that’s charged by both the windmill and the solar panels.

The greater your power needs-the bigger your battery bank needs to be-more batteries means more stored power. You also need to have a small gas powered generator-2500 watts or so-to charge the batteries when they are too close to being drained.

You can also have separate battery banks for the solar panel array (s). the windmill/water tank/battery powered pump setup (s),meaning if you need more power-build more windmills with water tanks,or just have smaller windmills with car/truck alternators charging a small battery bank,and/or place more small solar panel arrays facing south.


When you set up your battery banks-be sure to have each battery you add fully charged when you add it.

Another thing is you have to use the batteries,they have to be discharged and recharged.

Once you have the system installed-use it to run your home or retreat for the weekend-this way the batteries are getting used,they go through the discharge-recharge cycle a few times a month.

Yes,the batteries are expensive-you can either give up some extras now-or have no power when the grid goes down-it’s your choice…


If anyone wants more info on this type of a system,e-mail me





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