Archive for the ‘survival’ Category

Caching Supplies

Posted: August 10, 2014 by gamegetterII in firearms, preparedness, survival, training, Uncategorized

Like the Boy Scout motto says-be prepared!

You should have caches of supplies hidden along your E&E routes,and around your home,or your retreat in the boonies.

The supplies should consist of medical supplies to restock your IFAK,and some additional wound treatment supplies,along with food,water,spare weapons, ammo,clothing,spare assault pack and ruck.

Depending on where you live-you can bury a lot of stuff in the ground. A 5 gallon bucket holds a little over 30# of rice-that can sustain a lot of people for a few day-or a few people for much longer.

Medical supplies can be stored in sections of 6″ PVC pipe with end caps-there are threaded end caps and adapters available so you can cut the pipe to whatever length you need.

Ammo can be stored in the PVC,5 gallon buckets w lids,or military grade ammo cans.

Supplies in your cache (s) should also include some basic tools-gun cleaning kit,solvent and gun oil,gunsmithing tools,maps and compass,knives,axes,hatchets,magnesium block and striker for starting fires,paracord,tarps,batteries for scopes,GPS,rangefinders,radios,wipes,and personal hygiene items,clean clothes-especially socks and underwear.

You should also have some water in your caches.

When you place whatever it is you are burying-or hiding under rocks-or whatever you have to do in your AO-in the container that it’s going to be stored in,open up an oxygen absorber or two-even three depending on how much you have in the container-all those hand and body warmers you see at the checkout in wally world are oxygen absorbers-just open them up-shake them,to be sure the iron powder is mixed up well-then place in the container just before putting the lid on it.

Food items-like rice,pasta,flour,sugar,salt,etc do not spoil when there’s no oxygen-steel and iron items don’t rust when there’s no oxygen.

The idea behind having s supply cache is that if for whatever reason, you have to dump all your gear-you have a place to go and resupply.

Your caches should be in hard to get to places-that way there’s less chance of others finding your cache.The farther out of the way your cache is,the better the chances that no one else finds it.Plus no one will be able to see you as you resupply.

There’s the PT thing again-you have to be in shape-be able to go get supplies from your cache-which is far away from the routes others travel-and do so undetected.

When SHTF-there’s almost zero chance that you are going to be staying in one place for long-you have to have supplies stashed along every possible E&E route- around your residence,and your bug out location.

You have to walk the trails/routes that others travel in your area,so you can choose a cache location that’s away from normal routes-the PT thing again-walk the trails carrying your full ruck.

You don’t want to find out that you can’t get to your cache when wearing your EDC plus ruck-choose your locations when you have all that shit on-it would really suck to find out it takes you an extra 10 minutes to get to your ammo cache when you have people trying to kill you closing in on you.

Having a lot of supplies cached is just common sense-the idea is to survive the coming collapse.

 

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Since it’s now August,a lot of tomatoes should be ripening,along with some of the various types of hot peppers, green and yellow wax beans,and pickling cucumbers should be producing the majority of their cukes by now.

This is when a pressure canner pays for itself,as it’s the only safe way to can green and yellow wax beans.

The bigger benefit to having a pressure canner is that you can take your tomatoes,peel them,remove the seeds,-(save the skins,and all the stuff that comes out with the seeds)-and cook them down into sauce or puree.

I have this old strainer I got from my grandma with a metal stand that is designed to fit over a mixing bowl,it also has a wooden pestle-(like mortar and pestle)-Google it if you don’t know that it is…

It is the perfect set-up for forcing the last of the tomato juice from the seeds,skins,and the membrane that holds the seeds in place-use the juice that you get by pushing all that stuff through the strainer to add to your tomatoes as they are cooking down into sauce or puree.

If you don’t want to go through all that-buy a new sieve that has a crank-type handle on it that turns a blade to force the stuff from the skins seeds,and membranes of the tomatoes through the holes. That is a much faster method-I just use my grandma’s because that’s how I have always seen it done-so that’s just how I process my tomatoes.

Once your sauce or puree is cooked ’till it’s thick enough-follow the instructions from the Ball Blue Book of Canning, and/or the book that comes with the pressure canner.

I posted links to a bunch of sources for canning info in a previous post titled- ” Gardening,Canning and Food preservation part I ”

Another benefit to having a pressure canner is that you can make your tomato sauce or puree into a meat sauce if you want to have already made pasta sauce on hand-great thing to have a LOT of for your emergency food supply.

You can also make vegetable soups-using  the tons of zucchinis and green+yellow beans you you should have now-and can that soup in your pressure canner.

Again-follow the Ball Blue Book instructions,or one of the other resources I posted in part I of this series.

To use up your pickling cukes-I make some into bread& butter type pickles,some into dill pickles,some into garlic dills,and some into hot dill pickles-using a variety of my hot peppers from the garden.

I do NOT use my pressure canner to make any kind of pickles-or a water bath canner-I cold pack ALL of my pickles,along with most of my hot peppers.

How to make cold packed pickles and peppers will be in Part IV.

Until then…

 

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Mrs. Starvin Larry in the garden…

tn3

By now,you already know the deer’s movements,where his bedding area is,where his main food and water sources are,and the trails he follows to get to and from each.

Starting around the 3rd week of October-or just prior to start of rut where you live-find a field edge that has small trees along it-no more than 3-4″ in diameter.

Place you stand/blind so you have a clear shot in the close vicinity of the multiple fake scrapes I’m going to tell you how to make…

Make a your own fake scrape line,pick trees that have at least one branch that’s in reach of a deer-as the bucks use it as a licking branch.

You want your scrapes to be no closer together than 10 yards,any place where woods meet field edges works, a place where a brush field meets an agricultural field is  better,a place where a tree line meets an ag field is the best.

Using a rake,and/or garden claw,scrape away all the leaves,twigs,rocks,and debris from an area about 3′ in diameter-doesn’t have to be exact-3-4′ is fine,use the garden claw,make long marks in the dirt,so it looks like the antlers from a buck made the marks,go front to back,and side to side. It should look sorta like an oval tic-tac toe game.

Since bucks piss in the scrapes when they make them-be sure you drink a lot of water before you head out to make your fake scrape line-once you have made the scrape-“mark your territory” by pissing in each scrape.

As it gets closer to the rut-late Oct/early November here in NE Ohio-start putting 8-10 drops of doe in heat urine in your fake scrapes,as it gets closer to the peak of the rut-increase the amount of doe in heat urine you put in the scrapes,and add a few drops of buck urine to them.

Adding the buck urine will piss off the dominant buck -(pun intended)-the dominant buck is the one you want to shoot,he’s biggest,strongest,healthiest buck in the area. The younger ones will all be challenging him in pre-rut,and the early part of the rut.

From pre-rut,up until the rut starts is the best time to rattle- using real antlers is more effective than using any of the fake products/ methods.

This is also when you should be using a grunt tube-use it sparingly-deer aint like elk-they don’t bugle to challenge each other. There’s a plethora of You Tube videos on how to rattle and use a grunt tube-watch as many of them as you have time for-you’ll see many different techniques,find what works best for you-and use it.

Pay close attention to when the peak rut is in your location-because 28 days later-all the does not bred during the main rut go into estrous again-the bucks will be following them just like during the main,and first rut.

Again-pay close attention-as in another 28 days-there’s another,much less active rut.

These are the times of the hunting season when you have the best chance at getting a really big buck.

There’s a lot of people who could care less about antler size-I’m one of them-I’ll shoot a doe-it’s meat in the freezer.

Tips and techniques on how to harvest does will be in a future post.

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More getting ready for hunting season

Posted: August 4, 2014 by gamegetterII in Archery, firearms, hunting, shooting, survival

It’s now August 4th,bucks antlers are almost fully grown,covered in velvet.

Soon,they will start making rubs-they scrape the velvet off of their antlers beginning late summer/early fall.

You need to find these rubs-as they rub their antlers on small trees/shrubs,usually well hidden from human eyes-they are showing you their territory,there’s usually a lot of rubs in the same area.

Once you’ve found some rubs-set some trail cameras near them-(if they are legal in your state)-

Follow the tracks-you can follow them this time of year-it just takes some time,and a little work in the woods/fields.

You should be able to determine the direction the deer is coming from,and the direction he is going to.

This is going to lead you to 3 things-his bedding area,his water source,and his food source.

First follow the tracks in one direction,if you lose the trail,keep heading in the direction the deer was heading,remember,deer use the same trails for many hundreds of thousands of years. They follow the contours of the land,and every time they move,they are looking for one of those three things,bed,food,or water.

Make a few 10-20 yard circles from the last place you saw tracks keeping the direction of travel as your center line,you will find the deer’s tracks before long.

Don’t go more than a couple hundred yards in each direction at first-mark the last place you found his tracks with some surveyors tape-so you can see it in daylight.

When bucks make rubs,it’s usually late in the day,often after dark,so chances are he’s heading towards his bed from the rub. Since you are going to be looking for his tracks in the daytime,follow his tracks backward-you want to know where he’s been-you know where he’s going.

You need to backtrack him until you find where his food source is,and where the water source is between his food and the rubs. Finding the food source is more important at this point. Once you have found his food source,you already know two of the three things you need to find-most of the time a buck will move in sort of a circle-he gets up,wanders along slowly,eating a little bit as he goes,the first place he goes is to his main water source.

From there,he may hit more than one food source,but his main food source will be the one closest to his rubs.

What you have to do is head into the woods in mid to late afternoon,go to his rubs,then try to backtrack him to his bedding area-because he’s not gonna be in it in the afternoon-he’s already up and moving for the day.

He’s gonna bed down in a place where he has a view in almost every direction,often it’s just down from a ridge,on the south facing side of a hill. ( the south-facing hill side is not as important to him in the warmer months). Once you have backtracked him to an area where he can lay down on a hillside with a view,start looking for deer beads-they are just a depression in the leaves or grass,it may take you a few hours,or it may take you a few days.

Just be sure to go nowhere near the rubs late in the day-try to do most of your scouting in mid-afternoon.

When you’ve found his bedding area,start following him away from it-in a direction not towards the rubs. Most bucks will have more than one area where they make rubs-the bigger areas are the ones done late in the day-just before dark-the smaller ones are the ones he makes in the mornings.

Only go a couple hundred yards at first,keep doing the same thing in both directions-before too long,you will have his whole daily travel route figured out,you will end up with a route that is sort of a circle-maybe more of an oval-but it will start at his bedding area,and end at his bedding area.

Since you’re figuring out the deers movements now-it’s not going to matter if you kick him up as he’s resting in the afternoon,or if you get too close to his morning or afternoon water source,or even if you walk too close to the bean field,or corn field that he’s feeding from because deer are used to hikers in the woods in the warm months-they don’t see people as all that big of a threat-later in the fall-they start getting more high-strung and jumpy for two reasons-one is that bowhunters are shooing arrows at them-the other is that they know the rut is coming soon,so they’re gonna finally get laid.

This is why you figure out the movements of a few of the bucks in the places you hunt.

You will have an advantage over other hunters in both bow season,and rifle or shotgun season which also carries over to the late muzzleloader season.

Quite a lot of them will be home grilling steaks,ribs,burgers and hot dogs,washing them down with copious amounts of beer while you’re out in the woods patterning deer movements.

You should have at least one sand or blind near the buck’s bedding area,one on his trail between his main food source,and his main area of rubs,and one on the other side of his bedding area. The last two stands would be better if they are near a water source.

Even if you don’t get a deer during archery season-having a stand on either side of his bedding area will work to your advantage in gun season-use the one that’s along the trail he uses after he gets up in the morning in the mornings-but you have to be in your stand or blind long before legal shooting light. (you have your trails cleared before bow season-remember part 1?)

Because you are in your stand in the dark-the other hunters will spook the buck-and he’ll walk right past your stand.

Use the stand on the opposite of his bedding area for afternoon hunts-except when acorns are dropping-then you want your stand/blind to be near a stand of mature oaks.

I’ll continue with getting ready for hunting season articles up ’till hunting season stars-then I’ll be out hunting myself…

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Getting in Shape for Hunting Season

Posted: August 1, 2014 by gamegetterII in Archery, firearms, hunting, survival

Some of us get zero exercise during the summer months-unless you count the 12 ounce curls from lifting beer cans to your lips…

Unless you want to hurt so bad, and be so sore after opening day of hunting season that you can’t hunt on day two-pay attention!

It takes a minimum of 6 weeks to get in shape for humping a pack and your rifle,shotgun,or bow around the woods all day long.

Start off by walking for at least an hour every day,if you are already a runner or jogger,that makes things easier for you.

You also need to do squats and lunges to build leg strength.

Start with just a few sets of 3-5 repetitions each,or you will be too sore to perform the exercises the next day !

Work your way up to being able to do at least 5 sets of 15 squats,vary the width of your stance each day too.

For lunges,work your way up to where you can do at least 5 sets of 15-that’s 15 for each leg.

You will also need to work on your upper body strength-start off by doing push-ups and pull-ups.

This is in addition to walking/jogging/running,and squats/lunges.

It doesn’t matter how many you can do-just do them,increase the number of repetitions,and number of sets each day-each two days if you’re one of the 12oz curl guys-or ladies-if you can’t do a pull-up,just keep trying every day-you will be able to do them eventually.

After you’ve been walking for an hour a day for a week-no days off-start carrying your pack on your walks,keep all of the stuff you will carry every day in the pack-first-aid kit,maps,compass,knife,multi-tool,fire starting stuff,deer drag rope,your rubber gloves and gallon Ziplocs for field dressing your deer,put a half dozen water bottles and enough of your hunting clothes to keep them from shifting around in the pack.

Walk with that for a few days,then keep adding weight every couple of days until you can walk for an hour with the amount of weight you normally carry in your pack-plus an extra 15-20#.

After you have built up to being able to do at a minimum 5 sets of 25 push-ups,and 5 sets of however many pull-ups you can do-you really should be able to do 5 sets of 10 at a minimum-start adding some weight training in addition to humping your pack around,and doing push-ups and pull-ups.

It is fairly inexpensive to join your local fitness center/gym. It’s even less costly if your city or town has their own run by the city.

The exercises you should be concentrating on are:

bench presses

shoulder presses

butterflies-to work pectoral muscles.

lat pull-downs-strengthens the same muscles used to do pull ups-do extra reps and sets if you’re weak on pull-ups.

preacher curls

tricep extensions

rows-helps build some of the muscles you will use when dragging a deer out of the woods.

http://weighttraining.about.com/od/exercisegallery/tp/upright_row.htm

leg presses

leg curls.

Some additional things you can do are:

Run up bleacher steps,if you can get access to them,if not,use your stairs at home-if you have them. If you don’t have stairs,you can just step up onto a milk crate or a bucket-alternating legs each time.

Climb stairs or bleacher stairs with your pack on-with full weight in it. If you don’t have stairs-use the milk crate or bucket.

Get a 12′ 2×4, a 12′ 2×6 and a dozen concrete blocks,support  the 2×6 with the blocks,by placing a block at each end,then two more evenly spaced along the length of the board-so it’s sturdy.

Then practice walking the length of the 2×6 without falling off-wearing your hunting boots.

Add another block,so you’re a little higher off the ground,and practice walking that board.

Go back to just one block supporting the board,except switch the 2×6 for a 2×4.

Practice ’till you can walk the full 12′ without falling off.

Next-start the process over-only this time,walk the length of the boards carrying your pack-with all your gear,or water bottles for weight.

Finally,start over a third time,this time carrying your pack and bow,shotgun or rifle.

Add another block to get more height,practice walking the 2×4 for the full 12′

It’s also a good idea to learn a few Tai-Chi exercise routines,as they help with fine muscle movement and coordination,along with improving balance.

The above is just a guide-as I don’t know anyone’s physical condition,or limitations,I just gave you a general idea of how to get in shape.

If you have any health problems-ask your doctor before you start any exercise program.

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Just about every survival,prepper, etc site has a list of shit you should have in a “bug out bag”

Not a single one of the hundreds of lists I’ve read mentions gun cleaning kits,gun oil,powder solvent,copper fouling solvents,or gunsmithing tools.

Why? Does everyone really think their weapon is gonna last forever without being cleaned,oiled and maintained?

Guns tend to fuck up at the worst possible moments when they are dirty-especially semi-auto firearms like the A-R platform rifles.

Even bolt-action rifles do not operate correctly when dirty-this gets worse in cold temps.

What are you gonna do when your scope ring screws get loose? Or your scope base screws get loose? Or any one of the hundreds of other things that can go wrong with modern weapons goes wrong?

You have to have a cleaning kit,with the appropriate brushes,tips,and patches, powder and copper solvents,gun or light machine oils,a set of SAE and metric allen wrenches,a set of torx wrenches,a set of picks,a small wire brush, a toothbrush,and a set of gunsmith’s screwdrivers.

If you use an A-R as your MBR-you need a special tools for that-(no idea what it’s really called-I call it an A-R wrench)-and you need a punch,or else you can’t take it apart to repair it.

I don’t know about anyone else,but I have the tools I mentioned plus some extra shit,in my bag-ready to go.

If/when there is any type of extended SHTF situation-I know I am gonna have the necessary tools with me-or else I’m fucked-what about you?

Please leave any thoughts, questions, ,comments, death threats, etc. in the comments section at the end of the post.

 

 

It’s only a couple days away from August,many state’s archery seasons start in Sept.

Here in Ohio, deer archery season starts on Sept 27th.

You should have had mineral blocks out since at least Memorial day,as they help with antler growth. ( Unless not legal in your state) There’s still time to put a few out,they’ll still attract deer,and keep them coming back to the same spot every day. Be sure to place the blocks in areas where you will have a clear shot.

Now is the time to figure out where you are going to place stands or ground blinds,and trim branches,brush,or really tall grasses that would interfere with you having a clear shot.

Deer live in the woods-they notice things like tree branches being trimmed,do it now,so they get used to it,and it’s not a danger signal to them.

If you are going to hunt from a tree stand, ground blind, or ladder stand-hump it back into the woods and set it up,so you will know exactly which branches need cut back,which areas need the brush cut back,or if you need to pick a different spot for the stand/blind

Bring a small notebook,like a steno pad ,and good rangefinder,or a 150 foot tape measure with you-look at where you have your mineral blocks-which should be along a trail on the way to or from one of 3 things-bedding area,water source,or food source. Make a sketch of the area,label landmarks-old tree stump,big rock,fallen tree,etc. and measure the distance from your stand to each of these landmarks.

Repeat this for each stand location. You have to have multiple stand locations,wind direction changes,and food sources change-which means the deer’s route to and from their main food source changes. Always have a stand near oak trees,as acorns are a major food source-deer will eat acorns above all other foods,as long as there’s a goop acorn crop. The oak trees you choose to set up your stand in or near have to have an easy route in for the deer,along with an escape route. Deer always approach from cover,try to set up near the edges of stands of oak trees,that way you have a better chance of getting a shot at first or last light than you would if your stand was in the middle of the woods.

Once you have your stand locations mapped out,walk the trails in and out of the woods to each stand location. Clear dead branches and sticks off of the trails,so you can approach your stand quietly. Trim back briars and small branches so they don’t make noise by you catching your clothing on them,now is also a good time to either use some surveyors tape,or place trail tacks along your trails,or use both. Don’t start marking your trails as soon as you get in the woods-or others will be able to follow your markers to your stands.

You should have a good idea of where your trails are,that’s another reason to walk them often now,so you know the way to each stand by memory.

Just remember to walk the trails at the times of day when the deer are least likely to be there.

If you use trail cameras,now’s the time to get them set up-the more you do now,the less you have to do just before the season starts,when more people are in the woods. Pull the cards every few days,and see what’s on them-should give you an idea of the size of bucks you will see in the fall.

In states where you can’t use trail cams,or mineral blocks or other attractants,just pay real close attention to the deer trails,find bedding areas,water and food sources,and set your stands along those trials,trying to always stay downwind of the deer’s likely direction of approach.

One more thing about deer trails,the main trails you see are made by does,does with fawns, and groups of does-take a look about ten yards to either side of the main trails,look for faint trails that don’t look like a lot f deer use them-these are the trails the older bucks use-remember that when choosing your stand locations…

I got plenty of deer long before mineral blocks,scent bombs,doe in heat urine,bait,and even treestands were used by most hunters.

I got the deer by using the exact same methods I described here-it’s called hunting for a reason-there’s some hiking around and work involved in it-it’s nothing like you see on the tee vee shows-you gotta put some boots on the ground-early and often-pay attention to deer movements, know where the biggest stands of oak trees are,and get your stand set up at the edges just as the acorns start to drop,after that-hit the edges of corn or soybean fields. Pay attention to the farmers-the few days after a field has been harvested-deer are all over it.

Deer will also hit those same fields in winter if there’s stubble from the corn left,and they’ll hit the oaks again,looking for acorns under the snow.

Plan your stand locations accordingly-remember,you can use them during the gun seasons too.

Next deer hunting post will be hunting the rut.

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Someone told me about this guy,which I had forgotten about,then I saw his truck on the road earlier.

Seems to be a great training program-for a very reasonable price.
Check out the Q&A,and the “About Us” parts of the site,it’s not your typical self-defense,or martial arts training course.

The instructor is a USMC vet,with many years of training experience in combatives and firearms.

 

 

http://www.streetcombatives.us/index.htm

 

 

I have not taken any of the courses,nor do I know anyone who has.

If anyone has taken any of these courses,please let me know.

Some things I did not discuss in detail part 1…

Compost:

Even if you live in a home on a small city lot,you can still make a compost pile.

Start the pile by saving all of your vegetable peelings and scraps,along with fruit rinds,apple cores,etc.

Add your grass cuttings,the leaves you rake up,coffee grounds,egg shells,the outer leaves from a head of lettuce,tea bags,all the stems and leaves you prune off of your garden plants-including flowers-(if your wife or girlfriend plants flowers)-if you plant flowers-and you’re a guy-your man card is hereby revoked.

Add a couple bags of manure,which you can buy at Lowe’s,Home Depot,or your local garden center. We have chickens,so we have a source for plenty of high nutrient manure for the compost pile.

I do a fair amount of woodworking and carpentry,so I have piles of sawdust to add,which helps a lot. If you use a chainsaw to cut a tree down,or cut firewood-rake up the sawdust from the chainsaw and add it to your compost pile.

If you live in the city/suburbs, in the fall,you can usually find all the leaves you can use,either raked in piles on the curb,or bagged up in the “special” paper bags the city makes you buy.

If you have a lawnmower that has a bag to catch grass,along with saving the grass cuttings,run over the leaves before putting on your compost pile.

Once you have a fairly large pile,you have to keep turning it over,or mixing it up,to speed up the process. You will notice that the stuff from the center of the pile is warm,that’s the things you have added breaking down into compost.Keep adding stuff to the pile as often as possible,turn the pile over every time you add new materials. You don’t have to thoroughly mix the pile every time,but you have to cover the new materials with the already decomposing stuff from the center of the pile. If it hasn’t rained for a week or so-water your compost pile,moisture aids in decomposition.

Wood chips are anther good thing to add to your compost,as is old mulch.

I help out a friend who owns a tree service from time to time,and he will dump a load of chips for me any time I need them.Those who live in the city can usually get free wood chips when you see a tree service taking a tree down,most will gladly give you as much of the chips as you want.

Just keep adding new organic material to your compost pile,and it will keep breaking the stuff down,and you will always have a supply of fresh compost for free.

Once your pile contains almost all fine compost,start a new pile,and add some of the old pile to the new,as this will help the new pile to decompose faster.

I took some scrap 2×2’s and a leftover piece if 1/4″x1/4″ square wire mesh,and made a frame that fits across my wheelbarrow-that way,I can screen any large pieces out of the compost I take from the pile.

All composting does is speed up what happens on the forest floor in nature-the leaves,dead plants,etc. are broken down into topsoil. So what you end up with is a free supply of what is a nutrient rich humus type soil. Be sure not to add an excessive amount of oak leaves,or pine needles,or if that’s what you have to use-add some crushed limestone to balance out the high acidity of the oak and pine.

One other thing I do is in the fall,when all my wife’s flowers die,I empty the potting soil from the flower pots into the compost pile,along with the dead flowers,just break up the roots and stalks/stems.

Those who do not believe in using chemical fertilizers can make a “tea” out of the compost,by placing some compost into a pieces of cheesecloth that’s held over and partially in a 5 gallon bucket,and pouring water slowly into it,use the tea to water your vegetable plants.

In the fall,after you’ve harvested your veggies,and tilled up your garden,spread a layer of compost over the garden,it will prevent weed growth,and the nutrients from the compost will leach into the soil from rain and snowmelt.

Till that layer into your garden in spring,and add a new layer and till it in-this should give you a nutrient rich garden soil-that means nutrient rich veggies from your garden.

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The site below has a number of great books on emergency medical care available as PDF downloads-these should be included in your medical references.

Special Operations Forces Medical Handbook

“A comprehensive reference designed for Special Operations Forces (SOF) medics. Download Special Operations Forces Medical Handbook, 2nd Edition from rapidshare, mediafire, 4shared. Developed as a primary medical information resource and field guide for the Special Operations Command (SOCOM) medics, the Special Operations Forces Medical Handbook defines the standard of health care delivery under adverse and general field conditions. It is organized according to symptoms, organ systems, specialty areas, operational environments and procedures. It emphasizes acute care in all its forms (gynecology, general medicine, dentistry, poisonings, infestations, parasitic infections, acute infections, hyper and hypothermia, high altitude, aerospace, and dive medicine, and much, much more) as well as veterinary medicine and sanitation practice under prim Search and find a lot of medical books in many category availabe for free download. Special Operations Forces Medical Handbook medical books pdf for free. Developed as a primary medical information resource and field guide for the Special Operations Command (SOCOM) medics, the Special Operations Forces Medical Handbook defines the standard of health care delivery under adverse and general field conditions It emphasizes acute care in all its forms (gynecology, general medicine, dentistry, poisonings, infestations, parasitic infections, acute infections, hyper and hypothermia, high altitude, aerospace, and dive medicine, and much, much more) as well as veterinary medicine and sanitation practice under primitive conditions.”

68W Advanced Field Craft: Combat Medic Skills

“The Combat Medic of today is the most technically advanced ever produced by the United States Army. Such an advanced technician requires an advanced teaching and learning system.”

Combat Medic Field Reference

“The ability to save lives in war, conflicts, and humanitarian interventions requires sophisticated skills above and beyond first aid. Today’s Combat Medic must be an expert in emergency care, force health protection, limited primary care,…”

Where There Is No Doctor

“Hesperian’s classic manual, Where There Is No Doctor, is perhaps the most widely-used health care manual in the world.”

Where There Is No Dentist

“This 2012 updated reprint features information on Atraumatic Restorative Treatment (ART), a way to fill cavities without the use of a dental drill, as well as updated information on other training material and resources.”

 

http://medical-books-ipdf.blogspot.com/2011/10/special-operations-forces-medical.html

Another great book-

http://www.slideshare.net/alsfakia/us-marine-corps-wilderness-medicine-course

Another-

http://oai.dtic.mil/oai/oai?verb=getRecord&metadataPrefix=html&identifier=ADA543613

Supplement to the above…

http://www.socom.mil/JSOMDocs/Winter%202011%20JSOM%20Training%20Supplement-sm.pdf

Wound Closure manual-

http://media.benersättning.se/2012/04/Ethicon-wound-closure-manual.pdf

Everyone should have the complete U.S. Army IFAK-(improved/individual first aid kit)-

 

The IFAK (Improved First Aid Kit) consists of six expendable medical items packaged into a specially sewn expandable inner pouch with elastic bands to hold each of the items listed below. The inner pouch containing the six items is folded over and has velcro seals so that the inner supply module(pouch) can fit inside of the outer sac. The inner supply module is attached to the outer sac by means of a coil cord which is attached to grommet hole on the corner of the inner sac and then into a second grommet hole at the bottom of a modified MOLLE SAW ammo pouch.

The IFAK increases individual Soldier capabilities to provide Self-Aid/Buddy-Aid and provides interventions for two leading causes of death on the battlefield, severe hemorrhage and inadequate airway. These capabilities increase Soldier survivability during dispersed operations and the expandable pouch allows for METT-C specific “add-ins”.

Includes:

  • 1 – SOFTM Tactical Tourniquet
  • 1 – Elastic Bandage Kit
  • 1 – GA4-½” 100’s Bandage
  • 1 – 1 Surg 2″ 6’s Adhesive Tape
  • 1 – Nasopharyngeal, 28Fr, 12s Airway
  • 1 – 4 Patient Exam 100’s Gloves
  • I recommend adding the following:
  •  Add EMT shears
  • Add quickclot bandages
  • Add Dermabond
  • Add sutures
  • Add regular band-aids
  • Add Betadine
  • Add triple antibiotic ointment
  • Add a small bottle of saline solution for wound irrigation.
  • Add syringe w/out needle for wound irrigation.
  • Add aspirin,ibuprofen,tylenol-and if you have a few-prescription pain meds-such as Percocet,morphine,oxycodone,dilaudid.

Modify the kit according to your needs-it’s a great kit to keep in a bug out bag,or your hunting pack.