Useful info on water purification from Modern Survival Blog

Posted: July 21, 2014 by gamegetterII in preparedness, survival
0

bleach-water-ratio

“When obtaining water to be purified for drinking, avoid (if possible) water which is cloudy. Perhaps there is another nearby access to the same body of water which may be clear.

If scooping water from a pond, etc., try not to disturb the bottom so as not to disturb and pick up dirt or other debris into your water container.

If the water appears cloudy, filter it before treatment. Use a conventional water filter, or any cloth or such filtering material to catch the floating particles as you pour from one water vessel to another. If the water is very cloudy or has a dirty appearance, let it settle in a container for a time, and then gently pour off or scoop the water near the top which will be clearer.

 

 
One best way to purify water for drinking is to boil it for 1 minute.
Once the water has reached a rolling boil, it has become safe to drink.

Note that if the water source had been contaminated with chemicals, boiling it or otherwise treating it will NOT assure that the chemical is removed.

Know your water source as best you can.

 

Use regular household bleach, which the only active ingredient is ‘sodium hypochlorite’.

For many years, regular bleach contained a concentration of 5.25% – 6%.
Note that newer liquid bleach may contain a concentration of 8% sodium hypochlorite (about a third more than the original bleach formula), but is still okay to use with the same quantities from the chart below, given the relative margin of safety.

Note that bleach will lose its potency over time. Generally, 6 months to a year after its expiration date may result in half strength.”

 

 

 

 

http://modernsurvivalblog.com/survival-kitchen/bleach-water-ratio-for-drinking-water/

Why a muzzleloader needs to be one of your SHTF weapons

Posted: July 21, 2014 by gamegetterII in firearms, hunting, preparedness, survival
5

During an extended grid down or collapse of society event,or any other long-term disaster situation that may occur,at some point,you will run low on ammo,or run out of ammo,or have something break in your main battle rifle,or your main hunting rifle.

Those who have a felony record can legally own muzzleloaders in most states,just not the kind like the Thompson center that can be converted to a regular rifle,as the BATFE does not consider a muzzleloader to be a firearm,and no NICS check is required to purchase a muzzleloader.

 

Having a muzzleloader, and a good supply of Pyrodex or Triple7 will provide you with a weapon when that occurs. Then,there’s the fact that you can hunt with a muzzleloader,and the sound is not going to carry as far as that of a regular rifle.

If you are low on ammo,and hunting for food,the muzzleloader will allow you to conserve ammo.

They can also be used for self and home defense,or in battle-as a last resort,due to the fact that the cloud of smoke is going to give away your position.

There are ways that can be used to your advantage though,but that’s another topic.

Personally, I have several muzzleloaders,and old flintlock,a sidelock,and a newer inline.

The flintlock only requires some powder as the primer for the main charge,the sidelock requires percussion caps,and the inline requires 209 shotshell primers.

The flintlock will work as long as you have powder,you have to use FFFG as the priming charge,as it’s a finer powder than the FFG usually used in muzzleloaders. You can use the FFFG in muzzleloading rifles up to .50 caliber,so you don’t really have to keep both the FFG and the FFFG.

The percussion caps for sidelocks are very small,and come 100 to a package-usually a small tin,they are real light,so not much added weight to carry if your’e on foot.

The 209 shotshell primers are also very light,and come in packages of 100,usually a small cardboard box that has a plastic insert in which the primers are kept in rows.

Pyrodex and Triple7 are sold in 1# plastic bottles. One pound is 7,000 grains,depending on your rifle,and what you are hunting,your powder for each shot will vary from 50-100 grains. You get 70 100 grain charges out of one pound,or 140 50 grain charges.

I use a 90 grain charge for deer hunting in my sidelock,a 100 grains in my inline,and 95 grains in my flintlock-5 in the pan,90 as the main charge,all three have taken deer at 100 yards.

You can also use regular black powder,but I would try to avoid that if at all possible,as it’s very difficult to clean your rifle after use.

For the bullet there is the option of round lead ball and cloth patch,-the least costly,also the least accurate,bullet and plastic sabot-the most accurate,or modern version of the minie ball-which is a conical bullet,some require a felt wad between the bullet and powder charge,some don’t.

The round lead balls are most accurate in flintlocks and sidelocks-the modern inlines have a different twist rate to the rifling.

My sidelock, and flintlock will put 3 round lead balls in about a 5-6 inch circle at 100 yards-more than accurate enough to kill a deer.

Using bullet and sabot-I get the group size down to about 3″

Using my inline,with bullet and sabot-I get 1″ to 1 1/2″ groups at 100 yards.

Rather than paying for 15-20 bullets and sabots,I order boxes of 100 or 200 along with the applicable sabot from Midway USA,examples:

200 lead round nosed bullets,plus sabots, cost me about $50.00, including postage.

100 jacketed hollow points plus sabots costs about the same.

You can find boxes of 100 round lead balls for $15-20.00. (plus postage if you order online)

I will add a box of round lead balls to my order,so I always have several boxes on hand.

 

MUzzleloaders are not cleaned like your rifles that use cartridges and smokeless powder,they are cleaned using either any of the muzzleloading solvents on the market-or soap and water. I have found that the original Dawn dish soap works the best.The blue stuff,none of the others work as well.

 

Why you need to clean your guns correctly.

Posted: July 19, 2014 by gamegetterII in firearms, hunting, survival
Tags: , ,
0

Improper gun cleaning,and lack of proper maintenance is something many people are guilty of.

Every time you fire your weapon,you have to clean it,not when you get time,not when you get around to it,not when you feel like it,not when you have 3 or 4 guns to clean-you have to clean every gun every time you fire it-no exceptions.

Well,being in combat could be an exception-for a day or so.

Guns that are not properly cleaned lose accuracy,they tend to malfunction more,they tend to jam,they tend to have problems extracting rounds,with bolt actions the bolt tends to get hard to cycle,and cartridge casing get difficult to eject,and cartridges can become hard to chamber.

Triggers and some types of safeties can malfunction due to excessive dirt,dust and grime.

 

*please note-any questions,criticisms,complaints,comments,death threats etc can be posted in comments section at bottom of post*

When you get ready to clean your weapon (s),first be certain it’s/they’re unloaded- use a gun cleaning mat-or a piece of cardboard,or some old newspapers-whatever works for you,disassemble the gun as much as is practical,remove the bolt,the magazine,the forearm on a single or double barreled shotgun, etc. and lay the parts out on the mat.

Start by running a brass bore brush of the proper caliber/gauge down the barrel-always go from breech to muzzle,unless that’s not possible with your weapon.

Next,run a patch that’s been soaked in bore cleaner/powder solvent-Hoppes #9 or similar down the barrel,same way-from breech to muzzle. Let the barrel soak for a few minutes,then use the brass bore brush again,run the brush down the barrel several times.

Next run a clean patch down the barrel,then another,after that,run another patch soaked in solvent down the barrel. Let that soak for a few minutes,then run dry,clean patches down the barrel,using a clean patch each time,until a patch comes out clean.

Last step for the barrel is to run a lightly oiled patch down the barrel.

For the bolt-if you’re cleaning a bolt-action,use some solvent on a brass brush,not a bore brush,a brush with a handle on it-looks sorta like a toothbrush-scrub the bolt face,then wipe the solvent off with a clean cloth. Using a plastic pick,clean out all the dust,dirt,grime from around the extractor,and the rest of the bolts moving parts,and around the firing pin.Then what I do is use some lighter fluid-Zippo type-not charcoal lighter-to clean all the old oil etc. from the entire bolt,especially where the firing pin is located,fill it with lighter fluid,then use a wood dowel to push down on the pin-repeat several times-all the gunk-for lack of a better term- will be flushed out this way.

The lightly oil all the moving parts,wipe the bolt off with an lightly oiled cloth,and that’s it for the bolt.

Next,the trigger assembly needs to be cleaned every few times you clean your weapon-unless you are using it in a very dirty/dusty/sandy area-then it should be cleaned every time.

I use either lighter fluid-or brake parts cleaner,both are great at cutting through old oil,and the gunk it makes as it collects all the dirt and dust that gets into the assembly.

Either squirt the lighter fluid,or spray the brake parts cleaner into the assembly,make sure you get the safety too.

Move the safety through all it’s positions several times,pull the trigger back and let it move forward a few times,then repeat a few times with whichever solvent you are using( brake parts cleaner or lighter fluid-not powder solvent-powder solvent is not good for trigger assemblies,it creates a thick film that attracts dirt).

Lightly oil the assembly,wipe it off with a clean cloth-(you can use the same clean cloth for the whole process)-re-install the bolt,and wipe down all metal parts of your weapon with a lightly oiled cloth-unless your weapon is coated with Cerakote,etc.

 

Another thing I’ve noticed a lot of guys don’t do is use copper solvents.

If you are shooting FMJ military surplus ammo-it’s a must,even if you shoot mostly hunting ammo-it’s still a must,it just takes a couple hundred more rounds to foul your barrel.

What happens is every time you fire a round,a small amount of copper from the bullet gets deposited on /in your barrel’s lands and grooves the copper builds up over time,and it effects accuracy-more copper = less accurate.

The same thing happens with lead,and with the polymer tips used on many of today’s bullets.

There are multiple products out there that all claim to solve copper fouling.several stand out, a few of them are J-B non imbedding bore cleaning compound, or Birchwood-Casey’s  bore scrubber used in combination with a penetrating oil called Kroil-I use the combination of one or the other of the bore cleaners+ the Kroil on really badly fouled barrels, for regular use,I use Hoppes Benchrest #9.

 

These products all require some scrubbing with a bore brush,and leaving them in the barrel to soak overnight-be sure to keep your barrels pointing downward,you do not want these products running into your trigger mechanism,or soaking into your stock.

 

http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/716170/birchwood-casey-bore-scrubber-2-in-1-bore-cleaning-solvent-5-oz-liquid?cm_vc=ProductFinding

http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/solvents-degreasers/bore-cleaning-paste/j-b-reg-non-embedding-bore-cleaning-compound-prod1160.aspx

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1322137203/kano-kroil-penetrating-oil-and-bore-cleaning-solvent

 

 

Another bad habit I see is the use of far too much gun oil-the key is to use a very light coat,as oil attracts dirt and dust.

Another problem too much gun oil creates is that in cold temps,it gets thicker,and can gum up parts that are supposed to move freely,and prevent them from moving.

Parts such as your firing pin-as I found out on a late season extremely cold Ohio deer hunt when my first shot was low-saw the snow fly slightly beneath and behind the deers belly-as it had gone under the deer-when I racked the pump on the shotgun,aimed and pulled the trigger for a second shot-all I got was a click-same with the third and final shell-click.

The excess oil in the trigger assembly prevented the firing pin from traveling far enough forward to hit the primer hard enough to detonate it.

After spraying liberally with brake parts cleaner,moving all the moving parts by hand,and pulling the trigger several times after cycling the pump with a spent shotgun shell in which I had placed a pencil eraser in place of the old primer to prevent damage to the firing pin due to having no shell in the chamber.

The shotgun worked fine after that-now I clean the trigger assembly thoroughly before deer season.

 

Remember that a clean firearm functions as intended,has fewer malfunctions,and is far more accurate than a dirty firearm.

There is sort of an exception to the rule-some rifles just are not accurate until a round has been fired through them,I had an old Winchester model 70 in.270 that was like that-used to keep a box of cheap ammo,and fire a round into the dirt in front of the targets at the range before I started shooting at my targets,did the same the day before deer season started-and left the rifle like that-with the one round having been fired through it- left it like that until the end of hunting season,or I got my deer- whichever came first.

Clean your guns-every time you shoot-no exceptions-other than the examples I gave-every time-no excuses.

A dirty gun can jam or otherwise malfunction at the worst possible moment-see above scenario that took place when deer hunting.

Read.

Learn.

Train.

Do more PT.

Obama admin bans import of Kalashnikov/Saiga A-K-47’s

Posted: July 19, 2014 by gamegetterII in firearms, gun laws
Tags:
0

Anyone want to bet this becomes permanent,at least ’till 2017,when we get a new admin,hopefully one that believes in and supports the second amendment. (yeah,right)

 

 

“According to a Presidential Executive Order issued Wednesday, the importation of AKs manufactured by the Kalashnikov Concern in Izhmash, Russia has been banned.

This includes the popular “Saiga” line of rifles and shotguns.

Mikhail Kalashnikov spent his life at the Izhmash firm.

The sanctions were taken because of Russia’s aggression toward the Ukraine. Russian banks and energy companies were also targeted.

To be clear, the executive order does not affect Izhmash or Saiga firearms already in this country. This is not an “assault weapons” ban. Instead, it halts the importation of firearms from the Izhmash-based firm.”

http://thegunwriter.blogs.heraldtribune.com/17287/breaking-import-of-kalashnikov-concern-aks-banned-by-executive-order/

 

“The time to start slitting throats is being forced upon us, but we’re not there yet”

Posted: July 18, 2014 by gamegetterII in Uncategorized
0

“The only maxim of a free government ought to be to trust no man living with power to endanger the public liberty.
Oh, sorry again, that was John Adams.

So I share the sentiments of the first three presidents on what government is, and I would love to live under a constitutional republic. Someday, I hope to.
Its absence and lack since long before I was born has been keenly felt in this country, and want of it is killing us. And by no means only metaphorically.
The time to start slitting throats is being forced upon us, but we’re not there yet.

I inherently and immediately suspect anybody that argues for going there until all other options have been exhausted.
So until that day, the order of the day should be to so harry, harass, hinder, delay, and obstruct the machinations of the current metastasized abortion that they wonder what hornet’s nest they’ve kicked over every waking moment of their lives, and those who would subject us to the very slavery our forefathers shrugged off at perilous cost drop the reins of government as though it were a red hot iron in their hands, repent of the vines and weeds they’ve sown around the nation’s liberty as we hack them down and uproot them, and that they would flee with all haste to some more agreeable climate, physically if necessary”

 

 

 

http://www.raconteurreport.blogspot.de/2014/07/how-stands-union.html

Archery and types of bows for hunting and defensive use

Posted: July 17, 2014 by gamegetterII in Archery, survival
Tags: , , ,
2

gamegetterII bowkodiak bowhorton x bow

 

Pic on top left is a Hoyt GamegetterII compound bow-old school,made in the mid 80’s or so.

Right pic is a 55# draw Bear Kodiak Magnum recurve bow,made in mid 70’s

Bottom pic is Horton Summit 150 crossbow-made about 2007 or so-it sucks that Horton went under,at least they were bought by Tenpoint crossbow,another Ohio company.

 

To get into archery today is expensive-if you buy new bow,quiver,sight/scope,and arrow rest,arrows,etc.

Unless you’ve got a lot of $$$ I would get used stuff,many archery shops sell used bows,pawn shops are another good source,as is the ‘net, and garage sales-if you have the time for that kind of thing.

If you do find a good used bow-of any kind-take it to an archery shop,or a gander Mtn,Bass Pro,Cabela’s etc. and have them put a new string on it for you,put a peep sight in the string,check the bow out to make sure it’s ok mechanically,and check the draw weight if it’s a compound-have them adjust it for you if it’s too easy to draw-or too hard…you’re doing PT every day,so it shouldn’t be too hard to draw,right?

The other thing you need is a target-bales of straw will simply not stop arrows from compound bows,or crossbow bolts.

A black hole,or similar foam target is the best target to use.

The easiest bow to learn to shoot is the crossbow,due to it’s similarity to a rifle. It’s also got the shortest amount of training time to be accurate enough to hunt-or defend yourself and property with.

All you need is the crossbow-bolts-that’s what crossbow arrows are actually called-and some target tips for each bolt. get your target tips in the same weight as your broadheads so when it’s time to shoot the broadheads you won’t have much adjustment to make to your sight/scope.

If you don’t have much arm and upper body strength,you can get a crossbow cocking device,that’s a rope and some pulleys,so it reduces the effort to pull the string back by half.

You shouldn’t need one of these because you ARE doing PT every day,right?

There’s not much maintenance to a crossbow,you’ll need string wax,which you need for any bow-some light machine oil for the cams,and some rail lube,which is generally some type of silicone. The rail is the part where the bolt is placed to load the bow,and where the bolt rides as it’s pushed by the string.

You should be able to hit the target from 10 yards,from there,adjust your pins on your sight,or the windage and elevation on your scope so at 10 yards,your bolts hit about 1 1/2″ high,then move to 20 yards,and using the same pin to aim with,your bolts should hit the bullseye,or very close to it.

I use a rear peep sight on my crossbow,scopes work great,I just prefer the pins,as you can see them for about 10 minutes longer than you can see through a scope in the evening.

Then shoot at 30 yards,using your 2nd pin,which should be placed right under your first pin-if you need your bolts to hit higher,move the pin up,if the need them to hit lower,move the pin down.

Once your are hitting where you should be at 30 yards,adjust your pin so you hit about 1 1/2″ high,then move back and shoot from 40 yards,your arrows should be right on the bullseye.

Put your 3rd pin just below the 2nd one,move back to 50 yards,adjust the pin so you are hitting about 1 1/2″ high.Then move back to 60 yards,and adjust the 3rd pin if you need to.

By sighting in this way-your first pin-the top one,is for shots from 10-20 yards,second pin is for 30-40 yards,and 3rd pin is for 50-60 yards.

Crossbows are accurate well beyond 50 yards,however,I will not shoot a deer beyond 40-50 yards,as there’s just too much chance for error,which could lead to you making a bad shot,and wounding a deer that you are not able to recover.

The compound bow is sighted in pretty much the same way,I only use 3 pins,and I use a peep sight on the string,there are sights available with 5 or even 7 pins,but I feel those are for target shooting only,the 3 pin system is better for hunting,and if need be-self/home defense.

Set your first pin for 10-20,2nd pin from 30-40,and 3rd pin from 40-50.

50 yards is about max hunting range for an older compound,which is what I use,the newer ones can effectively kill deer at 60-70 yards.

 

Arrows/bolts-when you buy them,don’t get junk. You don’t need top of the line real expensive stuff-get mid price range. The boxes they come in all have charts that tell you what arrow/bolt for what draw weight bow. Get your arrows cut to your draw length-the archery tech will measure your draw length for you-crossbow bolts go by the length that your bow is made for 20″ or 22″.

 

There are hundreds of different broadheads available for hunting,talk to friends,ask the archery tech,research it online-whatever you want to do-I use 125 grain NAP Thunderheads,they are a 3 blade fixed broadhead,with replaceable blades,and carbide tips-I have never had one not go all the way through a deer,had one go all the way through an elk once too. They work,they have always done the job for me,I see no reason to change.

You will need a broadhead wrench,they are only a few $$$,and it beats slicing the shit out of your fingers putting the broadheads on the arrows with no wrench.

 

The recurve bow is a whole ‘nother animal,it takes a hell of a lot of practice to become good with one. You can use a peep on the string,and a sight with pins,but many people shoot instinctively,using no sights.

A recurve bow is a good thing to have-for a just in case situation. It is possible to make arrows for a recurve,something that’s just not possible with a crossbow or compound,due to the speeds the bows shoot arrows/bolts at.

I do not believe it’s possible to explain how to shoot a recurve bow,it’s something that you need to learn face to face.

 

That pretty much covers the basics-at some point,I’ll do a more in depth post,and add some videos to help show how it’s done.

 

Read.
Learn.

Train.

Do more PT.

 

Improving your shooting skills

Posted: July 16, 2014 by gamegetterII in Uncategorized
Tags: , , ,
1

483552_351688274931300_769431278_n

Some of the things I use to improve my accuracy with shotgun,rifle and handgun-

After you have become familiar with your weapons,learned how to safely operate them,fully understand the rules of safe firearms handling,and to hit targets with a reasonable degree of accuracy,here are a few ways to improve your accuracy,increasing your chances of surviving in any SHTF scenario.

One of the best ways to practice hitting a moving target with a shotgun using slugs,or a rifle is to take and old tire,duct tape a target to it-so target covers the hole in center of tire-then depending on your surroundings-you can have a friend roll it down an incline,the tire will bounce as it rolls,because whatever hill you roll it down is not going to be smooth. If you can’t safely do that- you can set up a sort of tire swing and push the tire so it swings back and forth. Just be sure that whatever is behind the target is going to stop your bullets. (preferably a dirt berm).  Shooting at a moving target is great practice for deer hunting,small game hunting,even combat shooting.

Another good way to improve your accuracy is to have a friend toss plastic 16-20 oz water or soda bottles that you have filled about 1/4-1/2 of the way with water in the air for you-(for shotguns only)-or toss them so they roll and bounce along the ground for shotgun,rifle,and handgun practice. You are not going to hit many of them with a handgun or rifle-as it is very,very difficult to hit a moving target that’s that small with a rifle or handgun. It can be done,it just takes skill,and a lot of practice.

Another thing you can do is hang several of the same plastic bottles,and 2 liter plastic bottles,about 1/4-1/2 full of water from a tree branch-or a frame that you have made-give them a good push and they will swing back and forth for a couple minutes-long enough for you-or a friend to start them moving,then get back behind the line you shoot from.

Shooting clay targets that have been thrown with a hand clay thrower,rather than shooting at a range,where the clays fly the same way every time-or at least the same way from each stand,is a great way to hone your shooting skill-shotgun only, handgun if you have enough property that there is no danger to any other person,or others property.

One more thing I use to hone my shooting skills is to take a bunch of clay targets,drill a small hole in each one,then hang them from a tree branch,or a frame that I’ve made with fishing line-you can buy 1,000 yard spools of monofilament line for a few bucks at Wally World. This is great for handgun practice,rifle practice too,if you have the room,and a safe backstop.

The times when you don’t have a friend to toss targets for you,do what I used to do when I was a teenager and wanted to keep my shooting skills sharp-take empty beer or soda cans,toss them up in the air with one hand,while holding your shotgun in the other,then shoot the can as it’s on it’s way back down. This is a great way to practice getting on target quickly. You may miss more than you hit at first-do not give up-because once you start hitting most of the cans you toss up,you will miss much,much less when hunting rabbits or pheasants or grouse,or ducks and geese. Being able to hit game helps out a lot when you are counting on eating that game for dinner,and feeding your family with game you have harvested while hunting.

My suggestion is that after you have become able to hit your target regularly,you go take as many of the tactical/combat shooting courses offered by various guys/groups as you can afford. There are a lot of guys/groups conducting classes for tactical or combat shooting for rifles,shotguns and handguns-take advantage of the courses-they will increase your chances of surviving should any of the fucked up shit that is likely to happen here takes place.

There is a reason for taking these classes,these guys know their shit,unless you are a recently returned from combat vet-the rest of us don’t know shit about combat shooting,or how to move,shoot,and communicate as a team.

My recommendations for training…

http://masondixontactical.wordpress.com/

http://mountainguerrilla.wordpress.com/

http://www.maxvelocitytactical.com/blog/

Knowledge/info about basic rifle marksmanship…

http://westernrifleshooters.blogspot.com/2007/11/basic-rifle-marksmanship-series-part-i.html

http://westernrifleshooters.blogspot.com/2008/02/basic-rifle-marksmanship-series-part.html

http://westernrifleshooters.blogspot.com/2008/06/basic-rifle-marksmanship-series-part.html

http://westernrifleshooters.blogspot.com/2009/01/basic-rifle-marksmanship-series-part.html

http://westernrifleshooters.blogspot.com/2009/01/basic-rifle-marksmanship-series-part-iv.html

Please note-WRSA has a ton of very good info on their site-home page…

http://westernrifleshooters.wordpress.com/

 

 

You do have a team by now-right?

If you don’t have a team,work on it,there ARE guys in your area that want to be able to survive any of the fucked up shit that is very likely to happen here-it takes time,you will find other guys.

Even if you don’t have a team,you are doing PT every day,right?

Reasons why you need to be doing PT,and putting together a team/group/tribe…

Hopefully more of you are getting wise to all the bullshit our government is doing-as in taking away our rights a little at a time,the possibilities of our economy quickly going in the toilet again,only worse than last time,and for much longer,the ever increasing militarization of our police forces-which are become more and more like jack-booted thugs,and less and less than the police that used to “protect and serve” We,as in anyone not a cop-are the enemy,an Indiana sheriff,while discussing his dept’s new MRAP, said the USA is a war zone,and citizens are the enemy.

The government’s “regulatory agencies” such as the EPA,BLM,USFS,USFWS,BATFE,DEA,etc. are all heavily armed now,and all have their own “special” units-as in their own versions of SWAT teams.Aside from that,they are overstepping their authority,enacting rules/regs based on what the enviro-nazis and animal “rights” whackos tell them to do. We no longer have any input,the enviro-nazis and animal”rights” whackos are trying to get ALL lead ammo banned,the HSUS,PETA,and the rest of the animal “rights” whackos are trying to get all hunting and trapping banned on all public lands.

Read.

Learn.

Train.

Do more PT.

 

Getting started with firearms.

Posted: July 13, 2014 by gamegetterII in Uncategorized
Tags: , , ,
0
 Most of you know by now that the people in charge of the government and financial institutions are not doing a real good job of creating any kind of recovery from the market meltdown, and are well on their way to creating  the next, new and improved version of economic collapse.
This one is most likely gonna be a lot worse,and last a lot longer!
I don’t remember where I copied the pic below from-it does have the guys site on it,so he still gets credit for the pic.
1009946_724468497572904_1358434391_n
I’m going to go over the firearms stuff from the beginning-as in so those new to firearms shooting,and hunting can learn a few things-those who are already at an advanced stage in training don’t really need any of this info,but those who are new need to learn.
You will need to have more than 1 firearm,at the minimum,you need a rifle,shotgun,and handgun.
The rifle and shotgun are far more important.
You are better off having more than 1 rifle,and the reason is you want a rifle that can serve as your “battle rifle” for defending your home and property.
You also will need a rifle to hunt with,if you have a place to go outside of the city.
If you talk to 25 guys about guns,you’re gonna get 25 different opinions on what guns to have.
This is my opinion,others have different opinions,no one is “right” and no one is “wrong”-different guns/combinations of guns work for different people,in different locations.
What I feel you should have is:
1) A good semi-auto rifle in either 5.56/.223 , 7.62×51/.308, or 7.62×39
2) A bolt-action rifle with a good scope in 7.62×51/.308,.300 Win Mag,30-06,.243,.270,6.5-284,6.5 Creedmore…
(the 7.62×51/.308, 30-06,and .300 Win mag are the best choices,simply due to availability of ammo,with the 7.62×51/.308 being the most common.)
3) A .22 either a good bolt-action,or a semi-auto like the Ruger 10-22.
Personally,I would go with the 10-22 as there are lots of accessories,they are very common,and spare parts are available.
Shotguns-
I feel everyone needs to have at least 2 shotguns, a good pump or semi-auto,and a single shot or double barrel for a back-up,because a pump or semi-auto has more moving parts-that means more shit can break,and replacement parts may not be available at all in an extended SHTF situation-unless you have a house somewhere waaay out in the boonies with a complete machine shop,and your own source of power.
Gauge is up to you,most people believe the 12 gauge is far more powerful that the 20 gauge.
Fact is,the 12 just isn’t all that much more powerful, Field&Stream magazine did an article on shotguns recently which covered this issue-bottom line is a 20 gauge is powerful enough,and has a hell of a lot less recoil.
Handguns-
This one has even more differing opinions that there are concerning rifles…
get something that fits your hands,is not too heavy,or too big,or too small.
Semi-auto is preferred,and not some cheap off brand piece of shit made somewhere where the tolerances they machine parts to are very,very sloppy.
As with all of your firearms-you need to have a handgun that works-every time you pull the trigger.
Your handgun also has to be easy to aim,hit to the same point of impact every time-providing you are holding it exactly the same,line up the sights exactly the same,and pull the trigger exactly the same way.
If you are defending yourself in battle in some SHTF scenario-and you are down to using your handgun-you are already in deep shit-so you had better be able to count on the handgun.
Your rifles:
The semi-auto that you choose is up to you-there’s lots of options.
My first choice would be to get an A-R platform rifle for several reasons,the magazines fit all A-R’s,so you can borrow a mag if need be, a lot of parts are interchangeable,once you learn to run the gun,you can pick up an A-R and be able to use it,and shoot accurately-plus the ammo is reasonable priced,does not weigh as much as 7.62×51/.308,0r .30-06, so you can carry a lot more.
You can pick up a brand new Bushmaster for $700.00-$800.00
You can also get an A-R in other calibers than 5.56/.223.
 The A-K-47 is pretty much indestructable,but it’s not all that accurate, has a horrible trigger,and it’s heavy-unless you make some improvements to it.
Ammo for the A-K-47  (7.62×39) is plentiful and inexpensive
The A-K-74 is the “new” (mid 70’s),improved version of the A-K-47,it uses 5.45×39 ammo.
There’s nothing wrong with the A-K’s,other than you have to make improvements to them,and the ammo is less common than the 5.56/.223 that the A-R’s use,and parts will become real hard to find real quick in any extended SHTF scenario.
Most guys have A-R’s and that’s another reason to stick with the platform,lots of parts,lots of ammo,everyone already knows how to shoot everyone else’s rifle.
Bolt action with good scope-
Again,I would stick with what’s common,7.62×51/.308,30-06,.300 Win mag. 7.62×51/.308 is the most common,as it’s a NATO round.
Just don’t get some cheap garbage rifle-you get what you pay for.
You can still get a rifle that is dependable and very accurate for about the same cost as a lower price range A-R.
I like Savage bolt-actions-the company went through a period where they were producing junk-that was resolved,and now they are making very,very accurate bolt-action rifles,many come with their Accutrigger-which is a user adjustable trigger,some of their upper mid price,and high price rifles have what they call the Accustock,which allows for perfect adjustment of stock to receiver and barrel fit,which improves accuracy.
My brother has a savage 110 in .30-06, I have a model 11 in .308-both rifles can put a 5 shot string into a 3″ bullseye at 300 yards,and are capable of holding that minute of angle or less accuracy out to longer ranges-neither of us have a scope that’s much good beyond 300 yards…either that,or we’re both getting old,and our eyesight is going…
A word about scopes-a cheap scope is just that-cheap,and it will fog up,the crosshair wire(in cheap scopes) will break,the windage and elevation adjustments wil stop working,it won’t hold a zero,etc,etc.
Example-a mid-priced savage bolt-action is $700-800.00 or so-the scope should cost that much at a minimum-no sense buying a good rifle and putting some junk scope from wally-world on it-you wouldn’t spend thousands of dollars restoring an old muscle car-then put one of today’s 6 cylinder engines in it would you?
The .22,preferably the Ruger 10-22.
Same thing as with the A-R platform rifle-there’s millions of them out there,there’s a plethora of aftermarket parts,and they all operate the same,so anyone can pick up their buddy’s rifle and already know how to use it.
That,and you can feed yourself and your family, group or tribe with it,it’s not super loud like a 5.56 or .308,and can kill rabbits,squirrels,even a feral hog with the right shot.
Handgun-
I prefer a 1911 style in .45 APC, with a revolver as a back-up in either .357 mag,or ,44 mag.
However-the problem with my choices is ammo,as those are not commonly issued to law enforcement,and are not military calibers,ammo will become very scarce,very fast.
I would recommend  sticking with a 9mm,not a cheap piece of shit,something like a Beretta,Sig-Sauer,Smith&Wesson,or Glock-if you’ve got a few extra bucks.
One last point to make-as this already getting way too long-all these weapons can be purchased used at gun shops,pawn shops,gun shows-take a friend who is knowledgeable about firearms with you,and you can find some great deals-that means more money for ammo.
My past firearms articles…
Read.
Learn
Prepare
Train
Do more PT.

YOU DECIDE: Liberty or Tyranny? Happiness or Misery? Life or Death?

Posted: July 13, 2014 by gamegetterII in Uncategorized
0

Good read-think about it-it’s spot on.

pelletfarmer's avatarBegin at the beginning.

This War officially started April 12, 2014, at the Bundy Ranch in Nevada.  It is the War Against Tyranny, and especially the tyranny that has appeared in the USA.  Yes, it also “started” in the ’60s, or ’30s, or 1913 or 1860 or 1791.  Everything leads to something, so it’s a process.  Still, no matter the legal issues involved, it was April 12, 2014 that many Americans–for whatever their individual reasons–first said No to tyranny in this century.  And meant it.

This essay is one message and it’s the same message as that day:  The tyranny is done.  It’s over.  It won’t be tolerated.  It won’t be paid for.  It will be stopped.  Americans have always stopped tyranny the world over, and now we’re going to stop it here.

“Ha ha ha,” you snicker.  “So who’s going to stop it?”  The answer is only too simple—anyone and everyone who decides…

View original post 404 more words

Stuff we all should have on hand for a SHTF scenario..

Posted: July 13, 2014 by gamegetterII in Uncategorized
0

Hopefully more of you are waking up to the bullshit our government is doing-it’s no longer we the people who are being represented by our elected officials.

Our elected officials are looking out for themselves,their families,their friends,and those who financed them getting into office.

None of them give a shit about you and me.

Our government is taking away our rights little by little-most people don’t notice,or are just too damn busy watching the tee vee.

Some of us are too busy busting our asses to make ends meet.

All of us should be building up a supply of stuff we use every day,because when the SHTF,there will be no running out to the local quickie mart for paper towels,TP,a gallon of milk,band-aids or ibuprofen,or some kind of microwaveable mystery meat.

Once things go south-and they will-if you think the ’08 economic meltdown sucked-just wait ’till the new and improved version takes place-it’s gonna be a lot worse,and it’s gonna last a lot longer.

All of us need to have at a minimum,a 6 month supply of food,water,first aid supplies,prescription meds,personal hygiene products,fuel for whatever cookstove and lanterns we have,along with fuel and oil for stuff like logsplitters,generators,ATV’s,tractors,and our cars/trucks.

Gasoline can be stored for a long time, as long as you add a product like Sta-Bil to it.

Your car/truck needs to be kept fueled up all the time-none of this running it down until it’s running on fumes-a full tank of gas can get you- on average-400 miles away,and that may be what we have to do.

All of us need to have hand tools,like saws,drills-(actually it’s called a brace)-axes,sledgehammers,woodsplitting mauls and  steel wedges,machetes,hatchets,picks,mattocks,shovels,rakes,small sledgehammers,and tools to work on cars/trucks.

I wrote lists of what we need at prohillbilly.com several years ago-check them out,adjust to your personal needs,and start stockpiling the stuff we need for a SHTF scenario.

Just a quick word about weapons…

We should all have a few rifles,a shotgun,and a handgun.

We should also have a muzzleloader or two each-ammo wont last long in a SHTF situation,Pyrodex or Triple7 is fairly inexpensive,lasts for years as long as it’s stored properly,plus lead round balls are really cheap,as are hunting bullets and sabots-good thing to stock up on,plus your muzzleloader can be used for hunting,and it will attract much less attention than a 30-06.

Everyone should have a compound or recurve bow,and a crossbow,they don’t cost all that much,and don’t require ammo,as arrows can be reused,and can made if need be.

 

I’ll go into weapons in detail in the next few days or so.

Read.

Learn.

Train.

Do more PT.

 

 

 

Older Entries
Newer Entries