Posts Tagged ‘survival’

The Sniper Insurgent

Posted: September 16, 2014 by gamegetterII in firearms, shooting
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Got the link to this one from WRSA…

“The “specially trained sniper” is either someone school trained to be a sniper, or someone who has moved up from “skilled marksman” to sniper (such as Simo Haya, Vasily Zaitsev or Carlos Hathcock). In the case of Simo Haya it was clearly the school of hard knocks, in Zaitsev’s case it was battlefield promotion, and in Hathcock’s case it was part of the USMC standing up a new sniper school. The Iraqi sniper, “Juba” is someone I consider to be a trained sniper, although I do not know where he got his training. My best guess is either Chechen or Iranian instructors, but that is just a guess.”

http://randomthoughtsandguns.blogspot.com/2014/09/the-sniper-insurgent.html

While on the subject of snipers and sniper insurgents,along with America’s 20 million deer hunters…

Do you know where your deer rifle hits the target beyond 300 yards?

At any distance greater than a 50 yard indoor range?

Now would be a good time to find out-and make any adjustments necessary,

Then practice,practice,practice-then practice some more.

Read.

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Do more PT !

Setting Up Your Hunting Camp “Kitchen”

Posted: September 12, 2014 by gamegetterII in camping, hunting, preparedness, survival
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Depending on what and where I’m hunting,I set up my camp’s “kitchen” differently,according to location,and means of transportation.

I’ll start with a camp you can drive to by truck or ATV.

I use the fire for a lot of the cooking,and also take a propane and/or a Coleman stove that will work with Coleman fuel,gasoline, diesel, or kerosene.

I take a 5 gallon water jug-the kind you see on the back of guys work trucks,an old enameled coffee pot, an assortment of cast iron skillets,dutch ovens,a griddle,cutting board,good sharp kitchen knives-(the same Henckels and Wusthof knives I used when I was working as a professional chef)-a pair of long tongs,a couple of spatulas,a rubber spatula,whisk,meat fork,and a set of 3 stainless steel mixing bowls that fit inside each other,the bowls are great for mixing pancake batter,making beer batter if we catch some fish during our down time,whisking eggs to make a big skillet of scrambled eggs,or a bunch of omelettes,plus

the steel mixing bowls,along with a larger enameled one are used to wash dishes.

All this is stored in plastic bins,as is all food that doesn’t need to be in coolers.

We use 3 folding tables. One is 2’x2′ or so,the other two are  about 4’x 2 1/2” each. The stove goes on the 2×2 table,the others are used to chop vegetables,potatoes etc. during actual cooking,and used to set up buffet style for meal times.

This set-up goes under a 10’x10′ pop-up “gazebo” thing the wife found at a local discount store for $50.00,or under an old-school dining fly-the kind that has one pole that rests on the middle of the table. If the location is in an area that’s full of bugs-like the black flies in Canada on spring bear hunts-I use an old Coleman brand screen house that’s 10’x10′.

The reason for bringing all this along is that it not only makes cooking meals faster and easier-if it rains,or is snowing hard-you are sheltered from the weather while cooking.

Plus the tables can be set up as one big card table if everyone’s stuck in camp due to weather.

I have a grill that’s 3’x5′-the kind you find in some campgrounds and public parks,got it when a local campground closed down about 10 years back. It’s just some heavy gauge steel diamond shaped mesh welded to black steel pipe like the type used for gas lines.

Also have a couple smaller versions of the same thing,except I used angle iron in place of the steel pipe to cut down the weight.

These are great for cooking over fires for a lot of people and/or cooking a lot of different foods,in different pans at once-like making bacon,eggs,pancakes,and sausage for breakfast.

When hunting in places we ride in on horseback,the cookware gets cut down to one 18″ steel skillet,one griddle,one dutch oven,1 enameled steel coffee pot,cutting board,1 chef’s knife,1 spatula,1 large fork,1 pair of tongs.

When backpacking in to hunt-all that changes to a backpacking stove,my old Boy Scout mess kit,along with canteen cup that is carried with canteens on my belt,I despise “Sporks”,so I’ll put up with the extra few ounces to carry a fork and spoon in my pack.

Since there’s not much actual cooking,mainly boiling water is all that’s involved when using freeze dried food-Mountain House type, MRE’s ,along with some good quality dried soups,instant coffee,teabags,and hot chocolate packages,I use the backpacking stove that uses a fuel bottle you pump up when using it,as it works better than the type that uses butane canisters. The canisters tend to work poorly in extreme cold,and at high altitudes.

The pump-up fuel bottles work at any temp. and at altitude,plus they can use Coleman fuel,gasoline,diesel, or kerosene. These stoves also are great to have for survival situations,as are the bigger 2 and 3 burner Coleman type stoves that use the same fuels in a tank that you also pump up.

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More Deer Hunting Tips

Posted: September 12, 2014 by gamegetterII in Archery, hunting
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What a buck’s tail can tell you about his behavior-from F&S magazine.

http://www.fieldandstream.com/articles/2014/09/tale-of-the-tail-how-to-read-a-bucks-behavior?cmpid=enews091214b&spPodID=020&spMailingID=7087828&spUserID=NjI2NzA0MjQyMzcS1&spJobID=521272872&spReportId=NTIxMjcyODcyS0

Another deer hunting tip from F&S…

Avoid wearing blues and solid green clothing.

“Basically, whitetails are sensitive to blues and greens, and less so to reds and oranges.”

http://www.fieldandstream.com/articles/hunting/deer-hunting/finding-deer-hunt/2012/10/how-deer-see-and-how-escape-their-vision?src=related&con=outbrain&obref=obinsite

More on proper knife sharpening.

Posted: September 12, 2014 by gamegetterII in Uncategorized
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Knife sharpening from “Big D”- a custom knife maker “Big D” is Donavon Phillips—Nissan factory mechanic, knife maker, and the current and three-time national BladeSports International cutting champion.

The man’s knives are scary sharp,so I tend to believe him when he gives advice on sharpening a knife. His custom knives are hard to come by,and they are works of art.

http://www.fieldandstream.com/articles/hunting/2014/01/knife-sharpening-knives-dull-edgehow?src=related&con=outbrain&obref=obinsiteknifeMagCon

Hunting the Whitetail Rut and Pre-Rut

Posted: September 11, 2014 by gamegetterII in Archery, hunting
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As the days get shorter,and nights start getting colder,deer start getting ready for breeding-otherwise known as the rut.
There are some very effective ways you can hunt during the rut,and the weeks leading up to it.

The NE Ohio whitetail rut usually peaks the first or second  week of November.

The pre-rut activity starts about mid-October. The first week of October,there is something you can do to attract bucks to your hunting area.

Find a field/woods edge,or the edge of different types of cover that has some small trees,with branches that are about 4-6′ off the ground.

Make your own scrape line by raking an area about 3-4′ in diameter clear of all leaves,twigs and debris-you want to have bare ground. Make one of these every 50′ or so. Do not use any doe in estrous urine,doe urine,or dominant buck urine yet-use your own-just piss in the areas you just cleared.

Make these scrape lines near all of your stand/blind locations,but make sure they are near one of the main deer trails.

I start using doe in estrous scents the last week of Oct. put several drops in each of your fake scrapes,I also take some green cotton balls,and put some doe in estrous scent on them,put them in a zip-loc bag,and drop one every 100 yards or so along the deer trails that lead to my fake scrape lines.

As the peak rut approaches,add more doe in estrous urine to the fake scrapes,add some dominant buck urine,and start using some of the scent dispensers that you hang from branches. I use two types,the scent wicks that are dipped in the  bottle of estrous doe urine,and the type that you fill with the estrous urine,and as you get ready to hang on branch,the wick extends from the bottle-then when you leave-the wick retracts,and you re-cap the bottle for another use.

I pick up all of both types,and take them home in zip-locs.

Pay attention to wind direction,so deer can not catch your scent,and place your stand/blind,and doe in estrous scent wicks so the scent wicks send their scent in direction of the buck’s likely approach route.Place you stand/blind up-wind from the buck’s approach route.

In states where any type of scents or attractants are not legal-hunt the fake scrape lines you made-bucks looking for hot does are going to check the scrapes,dominant bucks looking to run younger bucks out of their territory are going to check out your fake scrapes as well-so hunt your scrape lines,go ahead and piss in ’em-as far as I can tell-there’s no laws against taking a whiz in the woods.

Pay attention to where the does are entering the areas your stands/blinds are set up-if you have to-move your stand/blind 10 yards or so away from where the does enter-does will bust a hunter far more often than a lone buck will,and many times,the buck (s) will be a few yards from the does-still in cover as the does enter an area-watch closely,and many times,you will spot a buck either behind the does,or a few yards to either side of where the does entered your area.

Hunt the scrape lines in early mornings,and again late afternoon ’till dark.

Hunt near water sources in mid-morning to early afternoon.

During the peak days of the rut,I will hang a few scent wicks-the kind with the bottle of scent-around a small tree,and hang a strip of white cloth from a branch at the height of a deer. Often,bucks will catch the scent,see the white cloth,and think it’s a hot doe-they just ain’t thinking clearly during the rut-kinda like when us guys think with the wrong head.

I’ve used this technique in the past,and had quite a few bucks walk right up to the tree with the white cloth-when they get to the tree-they still stand there sniffing the scent bottles.

This technique only works when there’s a breeze to cause the cloth to move-like a deer’s tail.

Bucks are more concerned with breeding during the rut-so don’t focus on food sources-focus on the scrapes you made-or scrapes you’ve found that a buck has made-and as I said water sources in mid-morning to early afternoon.

More on hunting the rut soon,using grunt tubes,and doe bleats and on hunting the secondary rut.

*** I know people are reading these posts-I can see the number of views and visitors in the site’s stats-come on-sombody make a couple of comments !****

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The Importance of Good Boots

Posted: September 9, 2014 by gamegetterII in preparedness, survival
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Lately I have run across quite a few guys who have top of the line rifles,packs,tents,sleeping bags and other gear-and they are wearing $29.99 Wal-Mart boots.

I do not have all the latest,greatest gear,or brand new rifles,or camo clothing that costs more than my rifle,or $300.00 knives.

What I do have are a few pairs of boots that are not some wally world garbage-I have 3 pairs of boots,my every day all purpose boots,made by Wenger-the company that makes Swiss Army knives. I found those on sale when I went into shoe store to buy new “tennis” shoes. Apparently they did not sell as good as the Timberlands that all the local gang-banger and gang-banger wannabe crowd wears-they were marked down from over $100.00 to $49.99. This is the second summer I’ve worn these boots pretty much daily,and they show very few signs of wear.

Next is my early season hunting boots-a very old pair of Danner Pronghorn 8″ boots with 400g of Thinsulate insulation.

I will be replacing these next year,as this is likely the last season I’ll get out of these boots-12 years for a little over $100.00 is a hell of an investment.

Last is my cold weather hunting boots,a pair of Rocky Blizzard stalkers I bought in 2002-same year I bought the pronghorns.

The Rocky boots are still in great shape,and will last me quite a few more years,they cost about $150.00 back in ’02,well worth the investment.

Had I bought cheap assed Wal-Mart winter boots in ’02-I would have been replacing them every other year since-and the total would have been far more than the buck fifty I paid for the Rocky’s in ’02.

When you wear cheap boots,you get blisters on your feet,your feet hurt,the boots wear in ways that cause you to walk abnormally,which is bad for your feet,ankles,and knees-plus your lower back.

Remember-when SHTF there will be no running out to wally world to get new boots-buy the best boots you can possibly afford-now,and wear them so they are broken in.

Good boots are as important as having a rifle that works every time you pull the trigger,if you are wearing shitty boots-your feet get all fucked up,you can’t walk right,which means you can not do patrols,you will lag behind on hikes,and it will fuck up your feet,ankles,knees and lower back.

Cut out the soda for a month,or drink less beer,or cut out the high-end beer,or don’t eat out,or skip the local bar for a month-there’s plenty of things most people can do without for the amount of time it takes to save up the $$$ for a good pair of boots.

Do whatever it takes-save the $$$ and get a good pair of boots-or two.

Good boots are as important as the rest of your gear-and more important then a lot of it-do not buy shitty boots-period.

 

Read.

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Do more PT !

Choosing the Right Broadhead

Posted: September 7, 2014 by gamegetterII in Archery, hunting, survival
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There is a plethora of broadheads on the market,fixed blade and mechanical, 2 blade or 3,even 4. They come in various weights and sizes. Most states have a minimum size for broadheads.

Here are Ohio’s regs-

Longbow: minimum draw weight 40 lbs., includes compound and recurve bows. The arrow tip shall have a minimum of two cutting edges, which may be exposed or unexposed minimum 3/4 inch width. Expandable and mechanical broadheads are legal. Poisoned or explosive arrows are illegal.

(damn-and I wanted to hunt coyotes and groundhogs with explosive arrows)

Crossbow: draw weight no less than 75 lbs. The arrow tip shall have a minimum of two cutting edges which, may be exposed or unexposed minimum 3/4 inch width. Expandable and mechanical broadheads are legal. Poisoned or explosive arrows are illegal.

 

The broadhead you use should be one that shoots well,and will have enough energy for clean kills from your bow’s draw weight,and the arrows you use.

When I’m using my compound bow-a mid1980’s Hoyt-Easton Gamegetter II- that I have set at a 68# draw weight,I use Easton’s XX75 Gamegetter  aluminum arrows,with a spine-or stiffness- of 340. Look on the box when you are shopping for arrows,there’s a chart on the box that shows what arrows are best for what draw weight bow,weight of your broadhead, and the arrow length you are using.

I’ve been bowhunting since the early 80’s,after lots of experimentation with arrow/broadhead combos,and I do mean a lot-I probably spent enough $$$ on broadheads to buy a new truck-

What I settled on is the  NAP 125 grain Thunderhead. The NAP stands for New Archery Products.

This is the broadhead…

http://www.newarchery.com/products/fixed-blade/thunderhead-9/

 

The mechanical broadheads work great with the newer high speed compound bows,as do many of the new fixed blades.

One of the keys is to practice with the same weight target tips as your broadheads,then go to the plastic practice broadheads,and when it’s real close to hunting season,use the broadheads you are gonna hunt with.

It takes a bit of research to make an informed choice when selecting your broadheads,read archery mags,talk to knowledgeable archery techs in your local archery shop-if you’re stuck with a Gander Mountain,Cabelas,Bass Pro Shops-good luck finding any sales staff that has even the slightest clue what the hell they’re talking about. If all that’s in your area is a Wally World-you’re out of luck as far as knowledgeable sales staff.

If you are shooting a newer,high-speed bow,or a crossbow,you can use the 80-100 grain mechanical broadheads,or use fixed blade-I don’t use the mechanicals as they have parts that can fail-if the blades decide not to open,or not to open fully-then you are gonna be tracking a wounded deer for many,many hours.

I know quite a few guys-and ladies who hunt only with the Rage mechanical broadheads,and most have never had one of the Rage mechanicals fail on them-but every once in a while-one fails-you could hunt for years,kill your limit of deer every year,and never have a failure-it’s just my personal preference.

There are advantages to the expandable broadheads-they are more aerodynamic,so more accurate,increases your chances for a clean kill.

There are also 4 blade broadheads,and broadheads with serrated blades. I would consider the serrated blades if hunting elk,moose,caribou,bear,or bison-or if I was hunting African plains game.

Here’s what the serrated blades look like…

http://www.newarchery.com/products/closeouts/thunderhead-edge-8/

The fixed blade broadheads I am referring to are those like the NAP Thunderhead-which have replaceable blades.

There are also fixed blade broadheads that do not have replaceable blades,like this…

http://www.newarchery.com/products/fixed-blade/hellrazor-10/

Here’s an example of a 4 blade broadhead…

http://muzzy.shptron.com/p/phantom-mx-4-blade-100-grain?pp=8

Muzzy broadheads are my second choice,if the Thunderheads are not available,and I need new ones because my son-in-law lost them in the woods when I loaned him my bow.

That’s never a good idea-I no longer loan my bows to anyone-the kid also put a nice long scratch in my muzzleloader’s stock,and a couple new ones on the barrel-that is no longer loaned out either…

One last type of broadhead is the old ones that look kinda like the old native American flint arrowheads,with a small insert that makes them a 4 blade broadhead-here’s a pic of those…

http://www.broadheadquarters.com/Wasp-Sharp-Shooter-4-Blade-Broadhead-100-Grain/

Great source for broadheads…

http://www.broadheadquarters.com/

The best advice I can give anyone,after nearly 35 years of serious bowhunting is to talk to the guys/ladies at the archery shop where you buy your bow,or research your bow online by reading reviews on sites of places like Cabela’s,etc,archery forums, bowhunting forums to find out the recommended arrow types,then match whichever type of broadhead you choose to the type of arrow you choose. I would try at least 3 different broadheads and see which one shoots better for you-some broadheads shoot better for some people than they do for others.

Don’t fall for all the hype and buy every new broadhead that comes on the market-been there,done that,got the t-shirts and hats to prove it.

Once you have decided on a broadhead,stick with it,shoot only the same weight target tips.

Weigh each broadhead when you buy them-the weights can vary significantly,most manufacturers will accept returns on the ones that are way off. Also weigh your target tips-same thing-weights can vary-a lot. Not really worth wasting your time returning the ones that are way off-the postage would cost you more than buying another dozen.

Brands that I’ve used that I would recommend are NAP,Muzzy,Wasp,Rage,and Swacker,stick with brands that have been around a while and proven themselves,the newest,coolest looking stuff usually don’t last long-the companies pop up like ‘shrooms after a rain,and disappear just as fast.

I use some of the blue Loc-tite on my broadheads,so that I don’t have to worry about loose ones,as the vibration from carrying your bow in your truck,and even from you hiking with the arrows in the quiver attached to your bow can loosen the broadhead from the arrow shaft-this is real bad for accuracy,and arrow penetration on game.

One of the reasons I use the Thunderheads is that after I find my arrow,all I have to do is replace the blades,and I can keep using the broadheads,never had anything break or bend on the tips,just had blades break.

Something to consider for the preppers/survivalists-there are steel 2 and 3 blade broadheads available that do not have any of the razor blade type inserts-they are just one piece of  steel,machined or forged,and are reusable and easy to re-sharpen.

Hope this helps someone not have to go through all the shit I went through picking a broadhead-find one that you can shoot accurately,and stick with it-ignore all the hype that goes with every minor change in styles-stick with what works.

 

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Do More PT !

 

 

 

 

Quarter Inch Groups

Posted: September 6, 2014 by gamegetterII in firearms, shooting
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Petzal sums the subject up nicely:

 

“If you’re looking for a quarter-minute rifle, you run into the fact that you yourself have to be a quarter-minute shooter, and there are not a lot of people who can turn in .250 groups. It takes a particular kind of ability of a very high order. And if that weren’t enough, you have virtually no margin for error, anywhere. Your ammo has to be perfect. Your judgment of the wind has to be perfect. If anything is even minutely wrong, you can kiss .250 good-bye. 

Thus it is that we have broken the 1.00 barrier, and the .500 barrier will probably fall eventually, but I have my doubts about .250. Eventually we may have rifles that are capable of that kind of accuracy, but the shooters who can milk them for all they’re worth will still be in very short supply.”

http://www.fieldandstream.com/blogs/the-gun-nuts/the-elusive-quarter-inch-group?cmpid=enews090514b&spPodID=020&spMailingID=7047348&spUserID=NjI2NzA0MjQyMzcS1&spJobID=520530022&spReportId=NTIwNTMwMDIyS0

 

I’ve been a hunter all of my adult life,and quite a few years prior to being legally an adult.

I have shot exactly zero 1/4″ groups,but I came close as possible with what I was shooting-that was at 100yds,with a Savage model 11 in .308,with a mid-priced Bushnell scope,using Federal Power-Shok hunting ammo.

That particular rifle generally shoots 1″ to 1 1/2″ groups at 100 yds,depending on ammo,weather,humidity,shooting position,temperature,and geographic location.

Point of impact in Ohio is way different than point of impact in the northern Rockies in Montana,and it’s slightly different in the Monongahela and George Washington National Forests in W.Va.

 

Petzal’s point-and my point is no matter what the capabilities of the rifle you are shooting-it’s only as good as the shooter.

The more you shoot-the better you get.

If your shooting is not improving-go take a class-learn what you are doing wrong-and stop doing it !

 

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Fundamentals of Fieldcraft: Packing for Partisans: A Conceptual Approach to Equipment Selection and Load-Bearing, Regardless of Position or Duties, with Specific Examples

Posted: September 4, 2014 by gamegetterII in preparedness, survival, training
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Reblogged this on starvinlarry.com
May be some guys new to this stuff who will find it to be very useful.
I’m used to humping hunting packs and gear-huge difference…

 Something everyone should read-and understand.
You gotta hump your gear in the field,or you’ll never know if the set-up you have is gonna work-or if it sucks.

Now is the time time find out if your gear and the way you have it set up works-not when you need it,and are counting on it.

 

 

 

mountainguerrilla's avatarMountainGuerrilla

(This article is a revision of a series I wrote in the very beginning of the blog, entitled “Equipping the Guerrilla Fighter.” I have been thinking about this subject a great deal, since coming across a “prepper” manual on the subject that, while well-written, and well-intended, was poorly thought out and approached from ignorance of reality. Idealism is seldom a bad thing…unless it fails to be tempered with reality. Instead of focusing on specific items and recommendations, for the paramilitary guerrilla security force dude, or the auxiliary Home Defense guard, or even the underground operative, we’re going to approach this topic from a genuinely conceptual approach, so that anyone can look at it, from genuine Gus the Guerrilla to Polly Prepper, and figure out how to approach the issue from their own perspective and needs, with a systemic approach.

BTW–My apologies for the length. It was 22 type-written pages….J.M.)

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Knife Sharpening Techniques+Testing Your Blade’s Sharpness

Posted: September 4, 2014 by gamegetterII in knife sharpening
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A couple good articles on knife sharpening/blade sharpness testing from Field&Stream…

“Sharpening a knife so that it is keen enough to sever your limb, or, less drastically, skin and butcher a deer, really isn’t that difficult. All you really need to render a serviceable edge is a stone, a little spit and a steady hand, and even the spit is debatable.”

http://www.fieldandstream.com/articles/hunting/2011/05/outdoor-skills-hone-knife-sharp-enough-shave?src=related&con=outbrain&obref=obinsite

http://www.fieldandstream.com/articles/hunting/2014/08/paper-cut-testing-blade-sharpness?cmpid=enews090314b&spPodID=020&spMailingID=7034785&spUserID=NjI2NzA0MjQyMzcS1&spJobID=520285118&spReportId=NTIwMjg1MTE4S0

I use a 3 stone system from Smith’s that has 3 different grit stones on a triangular block of wood,that has a base with two vertical supports which are notched so that the triangular block of wood the stones are attached to fit in the notches.

This is what I use to put an edge on every new knife I get-unless it’s a custom made knife-then it is sharpened correctly from the knife maker.

The key is being able to hold the same angle while sharpening the blade.

I use a angle between 20 and 25 degrees,except for fillet knives,which I use an angle of around 15 degrees,a less steep angle allows for a wider cutting edge,but it dulls faster.

One other very important thing to remember is to use the same number of strokes on each side of the blade.

After using the 3 stones,I use a fine diamond stone,then ceramic “sticks”. The ceramic sharpener can be either the set of sticks that goes in a wood block,or one of the pocket knife sharpeners that has both carbide and ceramic.

The last step in my knife sharpening process is to use a razor strop-or a wide leather belt-hey they worked for old-school barbers for a few centuries-so they obviously work.

In my pack-I carry a medium sized diamond hone that has a coarse and fine grit to it,along with one of the pocket sharpeners that has carbide and ceramic sticks,plus a diamond coated tapered rod for sharpening serrated blades.

Both of those products are made by Smith’s-and no,I am not promoting their products,nor do I receive any compensation for mentioning their products-they just happen to make what I was looking for when I bought the shit. Plus there’s the fact that the company has been making knife sharpening products for a very long time-like since the civil war era-or right after the war.

I’ve also used DMT sharpening products,they work great,then there’s the WorkSharp-which uses a sort of sanding belts,Lansky makes good knife sharpening stuff,as does Boker,who makes Japanese sharpening stones-Gander Mountain,Cabela’s,Bass Pro Shops,etc usually have good prices on knife sharpening products.
I use these guys sometimes…

http://www.usaknifemaker.com/sharpening-supplies-c-52.html

As well as Smoky Mountain Knife Works.

Use whatever works best for you,the important thing is to always keep your knives sharp-dull knives are how you end up cutting yourself,and ruining whatever you are cutting-finding out you have a dull knife as you’re skinning and caping the deer or elk of a lifetime is not a good thing,and could ruin the skin,which would ruin your trophy that you were going to hang on the wall.

Finding out your knife is dull during a survival situation also sucks-and could cost you your life-or the lives of your family.

Keep your knives sharp-all the time.

A dull knife does you no good.

Practice sharpening your knives until you can get a razor sharp edge on all of them in just a few minutes-which is easy to do,as long as you sharpened them right in the first place…

Read.

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Do more PT !

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